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Cooking

Asked Dec 20, 2019 by Mary A.

Why Salt and Black Pepper Became a Classic Seasoning Pair

The most basic of seasonings -- at least in US cuisine -- are salt and black pepper. Since all living creatures have an absolute need for sodium, it's pretty obvious why we evolved to like salt. But why pepper? Is there any reason other than because that's what we're used to?

Answered by Matthew Card

Western cooking's dependence on pepper is a complicated story tracing back hundreds of years, trading routes and European colonialism. Pepper's punch adds accent to dishes and a mild spiciness, which helps define a dish's flavor. However, there are lots of ways to do that if black pepper isn't your thing. In Morocco, cumin seed is often used instead of pepper. In Turkey, smoky-fruity tasting chilies, like Aleppo or Urfa pepper, are used as table side garnishes.

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Asked Dec 05, 2019 by Howard C.

Why Onions Aren't Browning When You Caramelize Them

I can saute mine for an hour and they don't brown. I use sweet onions -- is that why?

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Howard - I definitely don't think it's the fact that you are using sweet onions. I caramelize Vidalia (or a combo of Vidalia and yellow) onions all the time. It could just be time. Sometimes, over medium-low heat, it can take over an hour to caramelize onions properly. You do want to start them over medium-high to get them softened and then turn them down to medium-low once they soften. You also want to make sure that the pan you are using is stainless steel, carbon steel or cast iron (in other words, not nonstick) and large enough to fit the amount of onions you are cooking. If it's too small and the onions are overcrowded they will steam when they should be browning. A 12" pan can hold about 2 sliced onions. Finally, using butter (or butter and oil) as the fat in the pan can often help the browning thanks to the milk solids in the butter. Making caramelized onions - the classic way - really takes a fair amount of time, attention, and patience. There are some shortcut recipes out there that you could try if you want something quicker, but they can be tricky to avoid burning and, in my opinion, don't produce the same result. If I were to pick one to recommend, it would be this one. Hope that helps! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Nov 25, 2019 by Matthewjraz

Why Brown Butter Orange Vinaigrette Separated

So I made the Acorn Squash with the Browned Butter Orange Vinaigrette (link below) as a side this evening. It came out wonderfully, but something strange happened to the vinaigrette. I prepared the reduction ahead of time, and just after removing the squash from the oven, whisked in the cold butter and parsley. It came together nicely, and I turned my attention to removing the squash from the baking pan. Around 60 seconds later, when I returned to the vinaigrette, it seemed that the butter has completely separated out. I tried further whisking to reintegrate the components, and it formed something the consistency of an aioli. It still tasted wonderful, so the dish worked out, but I'm not quite sure what happened or why. Any thoughts? https://www.177milkstreet.com/recipes/browned-butter-orange-roasted-acorn-squash

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Matthew - Did you rewarm the browned-butter and orange reduction before adding the cold butter to the vinaigrette? The sauce needs to be warm (but off the heat) for the cold butter to re-emulsify the sauce. I would also take the squash off the pan and then finish the sauce so it can be immediately poured over the squash on the serving dish. Hope that helps! Best. Lynn C.

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Asked Nov 02, 2019 by Kenneth G.

How to Cook with Verjus

I have just discovered verjus and was wondering if anyone had any great recipes where verjus is the star ingredient? Or maybe any tips on cooking with it? I have been told that it can be frozen in ice cube trays if you need to prolong it's "shelf-life". But, I have not tried that, nor am I sure how much it might affect the taste. P.S. For any MS staffers who might be reading...any chance of having verjus mentioned/explained on an upcoming blog, tv, radio or magazine spot?

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Kenneth - thanks for the suggestion! I will pass it along to our editorial team. In the meantime, I can give you some info here. Verjus, a tart grape juice, has been used by European and Middle Eastern cooks for hundreds of years. Neither vinegar nor wine, it is the pressed juice of unripe grapes, and has a taste in between those two. It can be white or red and can be used much like you would use white or red wine, vinegar or even lemon juice. Since it's not fermented, it's nonalcoholic. Great in vinaigrettes, sauces like beurre blanc, deglazing pans, etc. A splash of verjus can really lighten up a meaty stew or braised meat. The subtle tang really complements the richness. Verjus is also great in cocktails or even as a nonalcoholic cocktail itself (alone or mixed with sparkling water). Once opened, it keeps in the fridge for a few weeks; in the freezer, a few months. If you freeze it in ice cube trays, once frozen, transfer to an airtight container to keep it as fresh as possible. Hope that helps! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Oct 23, 2019 by Ravi S.

What Is the Xi'an Lamb Soup with Bread Called?

I had a chance to visit Xian province in China. Many of their dishes are spicy and unique. One of the staple dishes (as some one there said) was so good. It was one pot soup with lamb pieces and bread pieces, herb etc. It was spicy and very good. Wish Milkstreet will carry recipe for the same. Thanks

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Ravi - I'm fairly sure that what you are referring to is paomo - a stew/soup made of chopped up, steamed bread called mo or mantou, cooked in a lamb broth and served with pieces of lamb. We don't have a recipe for it here at Milk Street (yet!) but I will pass along your idea to our editors and recipe developers. Thanks for the idea! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Oct 16, 2019 by Mitchell G.

How to Host a Pizza Party for 25 People

This is sort of a follow-up to a previous pizza dough question - but, as you'll see, it has spun a bit out of control. I've got a kamado grill and got an add-on for it that basically turns it into a pizza oven. We used it for a small dinner party and it was a ton of fun, using the Milk Street dough and sauce recipes. Making smaller pies, we found that a pizza for every two people was enough and ended up with a little leftovers that people were glad to take home. My wife was really thrilled with it and said we should do it again. I agreed. However, we now have 25+ people coming to the next one. That's a lot of pizza. I'm trying to plan out the best ways to manage dough, pizza assembly, and baking both to get everything done reasonably and to maintain my sanity. I'm already bald - I have no hair to pull out :-) Any advice? We're enthusiastic, but not super experienced entertainers. Thanks! Mitch

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Mitchell - Wow! That \is\ a lot of pizza. My best advice is to prep as much in advance as possible and keep toppings to two pizza options. Not only will this minimize prep, but it will speed up the topping process if there are fewer options to consider. Then, enlist some help! If you are fairly good at forming the pizza I would get an assembly line in place. If you make it part of the party fun, guests are always willing to help out with topping pizzas. You form the shells, a couple of people do the toppings, you or a friend does the baking. Finally, don’t stress too much. It’s going to be near impossible to keep the doughs at the perfect 75 degree temperature. Try to bring them up to temp, but don’t worry if they go over. And if people have to wait a bit for pizza, it’s no big deal. I would design the party to be a casual, eat-as-it-comes-out type of party, rather than a sit-down affair. Have some snacks (cheese plate, pre-made salads, etc.) available so people can nibble while they wait. I’m sure everyone had a good time at your party last time because of the company and the fun of the pizza oven, not necessarily the perfect pizza!. ;-) Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Oct 16, 2019 by Violet S.

Do You Measure Olives Before or After Chopping?

In a recipe, you'll often see: 1/2 cup pitted green olives, chopped Are you supposed to measure 1/2 cup olives, then chop them. Or, chop them and then measure a 1/2 cup. While I think the former is what's wanted, I would like to know for sure. Thanks!

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Violet - Tamara is correct! 1/2 cup pitted green olives (that are then) chopped. You would measure the olives and then chop them. If we wanted you to chop the olives and then measure, we would call for 1/2 cup pitted chopped olives. Hope that clears it up! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Oct 16, 2019 by Elizabeth D.

Looking for a Flaming Graviera Recipe

Is there a Milk Street recipe on how to create hot flamed greek cheese with apricots and hazelnuts, served drizzled with honey?

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hello! Milk Street does not have a recipe for flaming graviera or "flaming saganaki." Interestingly, flaming saganaki is a Greek-American recipe rumored to have been created in 1968 by Chris Liakouras, the owner of the Parthenon restaurant in Chicago. In Greece, they simply pan fry the cheese and serve it as is or coated with chopped nuts. Diane Kochilas, a friend of Milk Street, has a great simple recipe that you could use as a starting point here - https://www.dianekochilas.com/classic-saganaki/. Good luck! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Oct 07, 2019 by Suzanne S.

How to Make Lemon or Lime-Infused Olive Oil

Any recommendations for making lemon infused and lime infused olive oils? I used to buy them from drums at Whole Foods, and LOVE using them ( they were labelled Persian Lime and just Lemon infused). Since WF went Amazon, they stopped carrying these. Thank you.

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Suzanne - It's super easy -and much cheaper! - to make your own infused olive oils. Add the peel from one lemon or 2-3 limes to about 1 cup of olive oil (adjust accordingly depending on the amount you'd like to make). Add to a saucepan and heat over very low heat for about 15-20 minutes. Strain and store in an airtight jar in a dry, cool place. Make sure the oil doesn't get too hot - you don't want to see if bubble or splatter. Hope that helps! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Oct 07, 2019 by Justina W.

Do Fresh Lasagna Noodles Need to Be Boiled First?

I'm planning to make a lasagna with fresh pasta but have run into some inconsistencies. More traditional methods recommend cooking or blanching the pasta before layering, but in the past I've just put it in fresh without any problems. I know it can turn out just fine this way, that even some dried pastas can be done in this manner, but might I be missing out on a perfectly smooth, gelatinized noodle by not boiling and setting first? If anyone has done a side by side comparison I'd love to hear about it.

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Justina - Thanks for your question! We've never done a side-by-side test of "raw" vs. pre-boiled (or soaked) fresh lasagna noodles, but my guess is that what you've found is true - there is really no need to pre-boil the fresh noodles. I would give a couple of caveats though - you want to make sure your sauce is pretty loose so there is enough moisture there to cook the noodles but not dry out the lasagna. Also, make sure to cover the lasagna with foil for the majority of the cooking time to trap the heat allowing the noodles to cook through. Remove the cover with about 10-15 minutes left to go to brown the top. I think, traditionally, the goal of pre-cooking was to season the noodles themselves by boiling them in well-salted water. It's my opinion that the sauce and cheese will do a fine job of seasoning the noodles and skipping pre-boiling will save far more time and hassle! Hope this helps! Best, Lynn C.

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