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Cookware

Asked Sep 04, 2019 by Marissa S.

Glass Vs. Metal Pans for Quick Breads and Bars

Hi, I recently started baking bars and quick breads regularly and they are turning out wonderfully. My only hitch has been that my bake times need to be much longer than recipes indicate (e.g. 30 minutes longer for brownies, about 15 minutes longer for banana bread). I finally figured out that it is because I am using glass pans. That is just what I have in my kitchen. Now I am considering getting metal pans for faster baking. My question is: since my quick breads and bars have been turning out so well, will I possibly sacrifice anything by switching to metal? Or will I just gain faster bake times? Are there any relative advantages of glass pans for this kind of baking? Just wondering before I invest in some new pans and make the switch. Thanks for any insight. Marissa

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Marissa - First I would say, "don't mess with perfection!" :-) If you are loving the way your bars and breads are turning out, I would keep doing what you're doing and continue baking them in your glass pans. Glass is an insulator. This means that it's slower to heat up but will hold heat longer. This is why it's taking longer to bake your brownies and banana bread than recipes suggest. The downside is that it takes longer for the center to cook so the edges may overcook before the center is baked through which can cause the sides to rise higher than the center. I find that, especially with baked goods, personal preferences are wildly varied. So, while most experts and professionals would say that a metal pan is the preferred choice, you may prefer results in a glass baking dish. If you do decide to make the switch to metal, choose a light-colored aluminum pan which will offer more consistent heating and browning. Hope this helps! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Aug 21, 2019 by Madeliene O.

Can You Make Durotherm Recipes in a Regular Pot?

Hello, For recipes using a Durotherm, can you just use a regular pot instead (but perhaps cook longer)? I don't have a Durotherm and was hoping to avoid purchasing another gadget - for now. It seems the downside of not using a Durotherm is you may loose some flavor as well as vitamins and minerals. Thank you, Madeliene

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Madeliene - I checked in with the recipe developers who worked on our Durotherm recipes and they said they can be modified to traditional cookware. In some cases, our Durotherm recipes are the same as the corresponding traditional recipe whereas in others we had to make some key changes. Was there a particular recipe you were hoping to make? It might help me pinpoint what changes to make in that particular recipe. Let me know! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Aug 17, 2019 by Maureen T.

Can You Sharpen a Nakiri Knife with a Chantry Sharpener?

I got the Nakiri knife a few weeks ago and love it. Can I sharpen it on a Chantry knife sharpener? It is a sharpener with two stationary steels crossed together that you run the knife through. I use it on my chef's knife regularly but wasn't sure about the thin blade of the Nakiri.

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Maureen - First, let's talk about steeling (also called honing) vs. sharpening. Although the Chantry Knife Sharpener is marketed as a sharpener, it is really a honing device made up of two butcher's steels. Unlike sharpening, which removes metal from the edge, steeling is really aligning the edge in a less aggressive manner. A properly steeled edge has the knife edge in alignment so the edge cuts in a nice fine line. Because its purpose isn't to remove metal from the edge, it cannot take a dull edge and refine it to a new sharpened edge. Steels will re-align an already sharp blade but won't actually sharpen a dull blade.The purpose of the Chantry Steel is to keep your knives sharp so you don't have to sharpen them as frequently. Ideally you would periodically send your knife to a professional to sharpen or use a whetstone and then maintain the blade using your Chantry or a honing steel. Either way, you can't use the Chantry (or any other single-slot knife sharpener) on Asian knives. Asian knives require a different honing angle than European chef's knives. European knives are honed to 18 to 20 degrees whereas Asian knives are honed to 15 to 17 degrees. At Milk Street we recommend the Kitchen IQ Angle Adjust or the Chef's Choice Pronto Pro for easy at-home sharpening of different styles of knives because they offer different slots for different honing angles. Thanks for writing in! Best, Lynn C.

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Cookware

Asked Aug 14, 2019 by Joshua M.

Best Broiler-Safe 9x13 Pan for Danish Dream Cake

I want to make the Dream Cake recipe from the latest issue, but it calls for a broiler-safe 9x13 pan and advises not to use Pyrex or nonstick. But what SHOULD I use? Even the ceramic and cast-iron 9x13 pans I've looked into say they're only safe to 500, and broilers can get up to 550 or more.

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Joshua - The best part of the Danish Dream Cake is the broiled topping - it's got a gooey layer hidden beneath a crunchy, caramelized topping - but the only way to achieve that perfect topping is using a broiler. The only pan option for this cake is an aluminum (not nonstick) 9 x 13 baking pan. I see these a lot in discount stores for under $10 or you can purchase one online for about $15 (they even come with a lid to keep the cake fresh). Trust me, it's well worth it for this cake! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Jul 23, 2019 by Richard S.

How to Convert Recipes for a Slim Tart Pan

I just purchased the slim tart pan from Emile Henry at your store. What my question is with just one slim tart pan how should I alter the amounts used in the recipes on Milk Street which are all for a full size tart pan? Would cutting the amounts by 50% be correct? Thanks so much.

Answered by Lynn Clark

Hi Richard - I apologize for missing your question! A ceramic tart pan is great for taking a tart or quiche right to the table since it doubles as a stunning serving dish. Just know it will be a bit more difficult to serve that first slice since it doesn't have a removable bottom. However, pans without a removable bottom are particularly good for crustless quiches since the filling won't leak out through the removable bottom. Our recipes are developed in a standard 9" tart pan, which has a capacity of about 4 cups. The Emile Henry Slim Tart Pan capacity is 1.7 quarts, or 6.8 cups. Therefore, the recipe ingredients would have to be multiplied by 1.7 to accommodate the larger capacity of your pan. However, it's always tricky when converting recipes for baking so you may find that some tweaks to this conversion might be necessary. Another thing to consider - stoneware conducts heat more slowly than glass or metal so the baking time may be longer and you may not get as much browning on the bottom of your crust. Hope this helps! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Jul 08, 2019 by Christine H.

Best Small Food Processor for Two People

I am just cooking for me and my spouse. I have a Vitamix for smoothies but I assume that is not the same thing as having a food processor for processing herbs and garlic and vegies or other items. Any recommendations for what small, relatively inexpensive food processor to buy? I am not a fancy chef.

Answered by Lynn Clark

We don't do equipment reviews here at Milk Street but we couldn't live without our food processors! A food processor is great for prepping vegetables, grating cheese, chopping nuts, and making doughs. The food processors we use at Milk Street are in the 10 to 14-cup capacity range. This size is great for large-quantity pestos, like our Peruvian Pesto, and for shredding vegetables like the carrots in our French Carrot Salad. A small food processor (under 6 cups) is technically considered a food chopper, rather than a food processor. This means it will be able to chop small amounts of vegetables, make sauces, dressings, marinades, and bread crumbs, but will not come with a slicing or grating blade (like we use for the French Carrot Salad) and the work bowl will be too small to make doughs and larger volumes of sauces. If a food chopper does meet your needs, you'll want to look for one in the 3 1/2 - 4 cup range that includes a feeding tube for best performance. There are only a few out there that have a feeding tube in this size range and you should be able to find one for $40-$50. In order to get all of the features of a true food processor you would need to go up to at least an 8-cup capacity food processor. Personally, I have an 8-cup food processor which is considered pretty small by most people's standards. Sometimes I have to work in batches, but it generally performs most tasks I need it to and includes a slicing and grating disk. I think this size would still be under $100 and doesn't take up too much space on the countertop. Good luck and thanks for writing us! Best, Lynn C.

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Asked Jun 25, 2019 by Jason F.

What Medium Heat Means on the Stovetop

When we bake or roast, we use temperatures to specify heat and assuming our ovens are accurate and we temp our food we are working with something we can measure. When you cook on the stove-top, you are told "high" or "medium-low," etc. and not given a temperature. I know sometimes you can tell your temperature by how food reacts such as with a simmer or a boil, but mostly I feel like I am left guessing and I can tell you that the medium on my mom's Viking stove top is a lot hotter than the medium on my run-of-the-mill Whirlpool. Infrared thermometers are relatively cheap these days; what temperature is "medium" vs. "medium-high" vs. "medium-low"? It's easier than ever to measure surface temps these days and while you might not always want to get your gun out, if we could at least come to know if a recipe says "medium" that means 300 degrees and on my stove that means a tick past the medium mark, etc. etc.

Answered by Chris Kimball

The easier method is to place a tablespoon or two of oil in the pan before heating and when it starts to ripple AND JUST STARTS TO SMOKE, the pan is ready for sautéing. Use an oil with a relatively high smoke point - I prefer Grapeseed oil as my go-to cooking oil although a refined olive oil will also have a high smoke point (roughly 450 degrees). All that being said, I do not preheat my pan when cooking garlic or onions - I prefer gentle heat which I think draws out the flavor better and avoids burning. I avoid canola oil since I find that it has a slightly fishy flavor. And, you are correct, heat levels for stovetops are completely meaningless. Barbara Lynch, a local Boston chef, once told me to LISTEN to the food as it cooks - that is the best way to judge heat level. Onions need a gentle sizzle whereas searing a steak will be louder and more aggressive. Two other suggestions. Make sure that the bottom of your pan is perfectly flat otherwise the oil will pool around the perimeter. This makes the pan unusable. Second, use enough oil. Hot oil will coat the food much better than the metal of the skillet, creating more even cooking.

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Asked Jun 13, 2019 by Bill G.

How Milk Street Cleans Cookware and Cutting Boards for TV

Who does the cleaning up after the show and how the hell do they do it? Your stainless cookware looks brand new, you brown meat on high heat and never get a spot of grease on the cooktop and every cutting board looks like it just arrived from the manufacturer freshly oiled! I buy Bartender's Friend by the six-pack, scrub stainless cookware for what seems like hours and never get that new look back. If I want to brown something(even in a Dutch oven) I have to cover the cooktop in foil or there are grease spatters everywhere! I've tried mineral oil, cutting board oil from the manufacturer and beeswax on my cutting boards and they still end up with stains. Or do you just use all new stuff for every episode? It must get expensive... All seriousness aside, how about a video on how you clean up after a cook? I'm sure I'm not the only one that would like to know. Thanks!

Answered by Chris Kimball

For TV, we do use new stuff (although I would love to use old stuff since that is what everyone else uses). That being said, Bar Keeper's Friend does work pretty well. I do find that adding water to a skillet with stuck-on bits and simmering the water works well. Enamel cast iron will never regain it's clean white interior but then it looks like you really cook! (Staub offers dark interiors which will not discolor readily.) Cutting boards will get stains but I have now converted to wood cutting boards. Like the feel of a knife on wood and any stains are part of the charm - I use a dark wood board. Otherwise, buy plastic boards and throw in dishwasher. However, thinner plastic boards always warp and become useless. Yes, we should do a video on cleaning - good idea! Try 1 TBSP of chlorine bleach per gallon of water for sanitizing plastic boards (although the dishwasher or hot soapy water is also fine).

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Asked Jun 07, 2019 by Ramona W.

Why Food Sticks to Stainless Steel Skillets

Good Evening - I have a wonderful set of heavy bottomed stainless cookware, which I have had and enjoyed for many years. The exception is the skillet, when I use it almost always food sticks. So I end up with my cast iron, not a real problem there, or the non-stick pan. Is there a way to season it like you do cast iron to prevent this issue. Thank you.

Answered by Chris Kimball

Not really - food will stick to stainless steel. BUT, you should check whether the bottom of your pan is perfectly flat - over time, most skillets will start to warp, developing a high spot in the middle. This means that the oil or butter will end up around the perimeter and the center will be dry. Another trick is to be sure to use enough oil - if you watch a wok-chef, they use a lot of oil in cooking and very little of it actually ends up in the food but it keeps the food from sticking. If your skillet is warped, throw it out and buy a new one but do not put a hot pan into a cold sink or cold water - that's the cause of warping.

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Asked Jun 03, 2019 by Hadley A.

Why Milk Street Recommends a Stovetop Pressure Cooker

Hello: I am a long time fan of Cooks Illustrated, America's Test Kitchen, and Cooks Country, and for many years I have had an electronic subscription to the full content all of the sites. During the equipment tests over the years of various different pots and pans, one thing has been consistent. If the thick metal disk on the bottom of the pan is SMALLER than the bottom diameter of the pan - as can be clearly seen on the pressure cooker offered in the store here - the area between the thicker disk and the walls of the pan scorch. This is true of every single review on the Test Kitchen site - every single review. They have also reviewed stove top pressure cookers specifically, and the same flaw is always highlighted and the winner never has that flaw. So, with the above being true, what makes this pressure cooker different? It clearly has the flaw, but it is being recommended. I'm not saying that it is not a good pressure cooker, not at all, I just don't understand the science behind it. Thank you.

Answered by Chris Kimball

You are correct - when purchasing pots and pans it is better to buy a fully clad pan where the internal metal - aluminum or copper - is encased in the outer aluminum and it reaches up the sides of the pan as well. This is especially important for sautéing for example. With a pressure cooker, most of the cooking is being done under pressure where this is not an issue. In addition, the overall weight of the cooker and the thickness of the metal is important. This particular Kuhn Rikon model (they have been making pressure cookers for over a half century) is very heavy and solid. With thinner construction, you should worry about the inside perimeter but with a thick, heavy pan you are much less likely to get hot spots. We have tested this pan here at Milk Street, by the way, and have not experienced any hot spots or burning on the bottom of the pan, even around the perimeter. The big issue is whether you want an electric pressure cooker or stovetop. We feel that electric models do a poor job sautéing and the metal is not nearly as thick as with a stovetop model. You can also consider an instant pot which is a pressure/slow cooker combo, but you are not going to get the serious, heavy-duty functionality of a good stovetop pressure cooker (although you do get the benefit of a timer and other controls).

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