Madeleine Pans

Getting madeleines right isn’t just about the batter; the pan is key, too. These small shell-­ shaped cakes bake quickly and are prone to sticking, overbrowning or turning out misshapen if the pan isn’t up to the task.

So we tested a dozen pans over four rounds, evaluating build quality, shape and size, browning performance and ease of release. Three pans got top marks. The Fox Run 12-Cup Madeleine Pan ($14) took first place. Made of carbon steel with a light nonstick finish, it hit all the marks for even browning and easy release.

The USA Pan 16-Cavity Madeleine Pan ($25) was a close second. Its textured coating was especially effective for easy release, and the wide rim made it easy to handle. The only drawback was inconsistent browning—center cakes came out a bit lighter than those at the edges.

In third place was Mrs. Anderson’s Baking Nonstick Madeleine Pan ($14). It baked evenly and released easily, but the dark coating required chilling the pan for at least 15 minutes before baking to avoid overbrowning.

Two pans from French brand Gobel browned beautifully but tended to stick. Pans from De Buyer and Ibili performed well, but both were small and difficult to handle.

Every silicone pan we tested failed. They were frustratingly floppy to handle and madeleines baked in them browned unevenly.

Across all pans, prep method was key to ensuring success. After much testing, our preferred method was brushing softened butter into each mold, then chilling the pan for 10 to 15 minutes before filling.