Off the Air

Pop Goes the Turkey
Multiple cooks have asked whether the pop-up thermometers that come in turkeys can be trusted or if they are better off using a probe thermometer.

To see how trustworthy pop-up thermometers are, we tested two different ones in two ways. First, we isolated each in
a sous vide bath to see exactly when the spring-loaded pin would pop. Both brands triggered precisely at their stated temperature: 180°F. Then we roasted a whole bird, inserting the pop-up thermometers into the breast (their intended placement and where they come pre-inserted in turkeys) and positioning oven-safe probe thermometers in the breast, thigh and drumstick. One pop-up engaged when the breast hit 168°F, the other at 178°F. Even at 168°F, just a few degrees past the ideal temperature of 165°F, the white meat had begun to turn chalky and dry. Here’s the problem: Even if pop-up thermometers are accurate, they are designed to overcook your bird when used as instructed. By being calibrated to 180°F—well above the USDA’s safe minimum of 165°F—and placed in the breast, they guarantee dry white meat. Our advice? Ignore the pop-ups and use a reliable probe thermometer, pulling the turkey from the oven when the breast hits 165°F.

Pie Crust Flake Off
A caller wanted to know if solid coconut oil could stand in for vegetable shortening when making pie crust. They’d heard it behaves similarly but wondered whether it would deliver the same tender, flaky results?

To determine this, we made two Milk Street pies—a blind-baked single crust for chocolate cream and a double-crust apple pie—swapping solid coconut oil for the shortening. In both cases, the dough was easy to work with, rolled out smoothly and baked up golden and intact. But when it came to taste and texture, the coconut oil crust fell short. Tasters unanimously preferred the shortening versions, praising their tenderness, delicate flakiness and crisp bite. The coconut oil crusts were tougher, less flaky and a bit dense. That extra firmness also meant the crust didn’t meld as seamlessly with the filling, creating a slightly disjointed eating experience. Several tasters also detected a faint coconut flavor, pleasant to some but distracting in pies where it clashed with the filling. For the best results, stick with the classic combination of butter for flavor and shortening for structure. Coconut oil can work in a pinch, but expect more chew, less flake, and tropical undertones.

The Fat of the Matter
A caller who often bakes with yogurt wondered how much its fat content matters. Would using lower-fat yogurt
in a recipe that calls for full-fat make a difference?

To find out, we started with two baked goods—a yogurt quick bread and a yogurt flatbread. For each recipe, we made three versions: one with full-fat yogurt, one with low-fat and one with fat-free. To our surprise, in both cases, all three worked equally well. The quick bread rose nicely, the flatbread puffed and browned, and there were no noticeable differences in texture or flavor. Even the crumb structure and moisture level were remarkably consistent across batches. Our theory? In most baking recipes, the small amount of yogurt used doesn’t contribute enough fat to significantly change the outcome. But what about recipes where yogurt takes center stage? We repeated the test in a panna cotta where yogurt is the primary ingredient. Here, fat mattered. Tasters consistently preferred the full-fat version for its luscious, creamy texture, while the low-fat and fat-free versions tasted noticeably leaner and lacked the same silky mouthfeel. Ultimately, in most
baked goods, you can swap in whatever yogurt you have. But in yogurt-­forward recipes, stick with the fat content the recipe calls for to get the intended texture and richness.