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I Finally Made THE Lemon Cake

I’m furious I didn’t make it sooner

By Claire Lower

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Here at Milk Street, there are certain recipes that have earned a “THE” in front of their name. For example, if someone asks if I’ve made THE banana bread, I know they are referring to the Brown Butter-Cardamom Banana Bread, even though we have others. If we’re talking about THE mashed potatoes, we are almost always discussing the Milk-Simmered Mashed Potatoes, which is certainly not our only mashed potato recipe. You get the idea.

Last night, I finally made THE lemon cake, and I’m furious I didn’t make it sooner.

While we have several cakes lemon that are flavored with lemon, none showcase the tart citrus quite like our Amalfi-Style Lemon Cake — and none are as romantic. Giovanna Aceto, whose family owns a generations-old lemon farm on the Amalfi Coast of Italy, showed us how to make the torta al limone and, unlike the unfortunately named “Marry Me Chicken,” this recipe actually gets results. “I married her just for the lemon cake,” her husband Salvotoretold J.M. Hirsch.

I’m not looking to get married (again), but I’m always looking for a good cake. Just look at that crumb! It’s unassuming in both appearance and ingredients list, but the flavor is LOUD. I didn’t appreciate just how much lemon went into the cake until I found myself zesting and juicing over 4 lemons at 8 p.m. on a Thursday evening. The zest perfumes the sugar that goes into the batter; the juice is used to make a syrup that is poured on the still-hot bundt shortly after it comes out of the oven.

It is tender. It is bright. It is beyond fragrant. It is so moist it borders on juicy, yet never reads as sodden. Make it. Serve it a spring holiday brunch or luncheon. Prepare to be asked for the recipe.

Speaking of spring holidays, I love ham and lamb. There is no Milk Street Spiral Ham, but we do have a gorgeous grilled lamb leg, and many sides that go great with ham. We’ve got THE potatoes, but we’ve got other mashes too — garlicky, cheesy Turkish mashed potatoes, mashed potatoes with browned butter, mashed potatoes with fontina and asiago and lots of black pepper. And, if you’d rather smash than mash, our extra-tangy Salt and Vinegar Smashed Potatoes are a great foil for salty, fatty meats.

Rolls are another must-have. My love for our Butter Rolls has been well documented, but our King’s Hawaiian copycat recipe is calling my name, and I must answer. They simply are my favorite rolls for making leftover ham sandwiches. If you want to get fancy, we also have Popovers.

And don’t think I have forgotten the vegetables. For me, the only answer here is in-season produce, like asparagus, leeks or peas. And, even though carrots aren’t in-season, they are easy to find year-round and have the whole rabbit association going for them. If I were to draw up my ideal spring vegetable menu, it would featureSkillet-Charred Asparagus with Lemon and Tarragon, Braised Leeks with Balsamic Glaze, Snap Pea Salad with Feta, Lemon and Mint and Butter-Roasted Carrots with Za’atar and Pomegranate Molasses. With all of that garden goodness, you barely need the ham (or lamb, or any meat at all).

For dessert, you know I’m recommending THE lemon cake, though I might have to make our toweringCoconut Layer Cake as well. It just looks so festive. I might even bake up some Hot Cross Buns. ‘Tis the season!

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Claire Lower

Claire Lower is the Digital Editor for Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street, with over a decade of experience as a food writer and recipe developer. Claire began writing about food (and drinks) during the blogging boom in the late 2000s, eventually leaving her job as a lab technician to pursue writing full-time. After freelancing for publications such as Serious Eats, Yahoo Food, xoJane and Cherry Bombe Magazine, she eventually landed at Lifehacker, where she served as the Senior Food Editor for nearly eight years. Claire lives in Portland, Oregon with a very friendly dog and very mean cat. When not in the kitchen (or at her laptop), you can find her deadlifting at the gym, fly fishing or trying to master figure drawing at her local art studio.