Pakistani-Style Grilled Marinated Leg of Lamb
A tenderizing trio of papaya, yogurt and lemon juice gives this lamb a rich, juicy texture.
- Makes6 to 8 servings
- Cook Time1 hour 50 minutes
- Active time plus cooling45 minutes active, plus marinating
- 2
At Bagh Restaurant in Lahore, Pakistan, cook Naveed Gill charred marinated mutton chops over a live fire, developing rich, smoky flavor as well as delicious crisped bits that contrasted with the tender meat. The marinade consisted of aromatic spices plus a trio of ingredients that tenderized the chops: papaya puree, yogurt and lemon juice. We wanted to re-create the dish using easier-to-source boneless leg of lamb, with lamb chops as an alternative. We also simplified the marinade, paring it down to the essentials. But the papaya, yogurt and lemon were key. Papaya contains papain, an enzyme that’s an effective meat tenderizer, while the acidity of the lemon juice and the calcium in the yogurt enhance papain’s effect. We found that either fresh or frozen papaya chunks work well. Boneless leg of lamb is challenging to grill whole, so before marinating, we score the thicker muscles with a sharp knife to allow the marinade to sink into those areas. We also cut the leg into three or four pieces so they are more manageable on the grill and can be removed as they are done. This also allows you to cook some pieces less for those who prefer red or rosy lamb and other pieces more for those who like medium or well-done meat. For a leg of lamb, eight hours in the minimum time for marinating, and 24 hours is the maximum, so plan accordingly. Lamb chops, which start out more tender and are thinner, require only two to four hours in the marinade.
Don’t use canned papaya, as the fruit has been heat-treated, which destroys the tenderizing enzymes. Also, don’t add the coriander, caraway and cumin seeds to the blender with the papaya, yogurt and other ingredients. Adding the spices once the puree is smooth and pulsing just a few times leaves the seeds coarsely cracked, which lends texture.
Step 1
In a blender, combine the papaya, yogurt, oil, paprika, lemon juice, oregano, 2½ teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Blend on high until smooth, about 1 minute. Scrape the blender jar, then add the coriander, caraway and cumin seeds. Pulse 4 or 5 times, until the seeds are coarsely cracked. Transfer to a large nonreactive dish, such as a glass or ceramic 9-by-13-inch baking dish.
Step 2
Place the lamb on a cutting board with the fat cap facing down. Open up and flatten the meat by using your hands to gently pull apart the muscles along the natural seams. Using a sharp paring knife, trim away and discard any large pieces of fat. Using the tip of the knife, make small, deep cuts all over the meat. Flip the meat so the fat cap is facing up, then make small slits into the second side. Flip the meat once again and, where it is thickest, use the knife to cut shallow slashes into the surface; the slashed areas should flatten out a little more. Now using a chef’s knife, cut the leg into 3 or 4 pieces of roughly even size; try to cut along the natural seams of the meat, but it’s fine if you have to cut directly through a muscle. Place the pieces in the dish and rub the marinade all over the meat and into the cuts. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 or up to 24 hours, flipping the pieces once or twice. About 1 hour before cooking, remove the lamb from the refrigerator.
Step 3
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute evenly over one side of the grill bed; open the bottom grill vents. Heat the grill, covered, for about 5 minutes, then clean and oil the grate. For a gas grill, turn half of the burners to high and heat, covered, for 15 minutes, then clean and oil the grate.
Step 4
Place the lamb on the hot side of the grill and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until well browned on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Move to the cooler side of the grill and cook, turning occasionally, until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of each piece reaches 125°F (for medium-rare) or 130°F (for medium), 15 to 25 minutes; the timing will vary with the thickness of the piece. Transfer each piece as it is cooked to a platter and tent with foil. Once all the lamb is grilled and has rested for about 10 minutes, transfer to a cutting board, cut into thin slices and return to the platter. Pour on the juices from the cutting board, sprinkle with mint and serve with lemon wedges.
Step 5
Pakistani-Style Grilled Marinated Lamb Chops: Follow the recipe, using 4 pounds 1-inch-thick lamb loin chops in place of the leg of lamb; marinate for only 2 to 4 hours, flipping the chops once about halfway through. Remove from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature about 30 minutes before cooking. Prepare the grill as instructed. Cook the chops on the hot side of the grill, turning occasionally, until well browned on both sides and a thermometer inserted at the center of the thickest chop reaches 125°F (for medium-rare) or 130°F (for medium), 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with mint and serve with lemon wedges.
