To make the dough, brush a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet with 3 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons semolina; set aside. In a 1-quart liquid measuring cup, combine 2 cups water and 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil.

In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix the remaining 128 grams (¾ cup) semolina, the bread flour, sugar, salt and yeast on low until combined, about 30 seconds. With the mixer running, gradually add the water-oil mixture, then mix until well combined, about 2 minutes. Increase to medium and knead, scraping the bowl once or twice, until the dough pulls away cleanly from the sides, about 5 minutes. Using a bowl scraper or silicone spatula, scrape the dough onto the center of the prepared baking sheet. Brush the remaining 1 tablespoon oil evenly over the dough’s surface. Press a sheet of plastic wrap against the surface of the dough and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Uncover the dough. With dampened fingertips, gently push and stretch the dough to the edges and into the corners of the baking sheet; try not to press out any bubbles. The dough will not completely fill the baking sheet, but should come close. Re-cover with the plastic wrap and let rest for another 30 minutes.

Again using dampened fingertips and working outward from the center, spread the dough into an even layer to the edges and into corners of the baking sheet. Re-cover and let rest until the dough is bubbly and risen by about half, 20 to 25 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 500°F with a rack in the lower-middle position.

While the dough rests, prepare the toppings. In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, combine the sausage, chard stems and oil. Cook, breaking up the sausage and stirring occasionally, just until the sausage is no longer pink, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the sausage mixture to a large plate and set aside. Return the skillet to medium and add the chard leaves and ¼ cup water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat.

When the dough is ready, uncover it and spread the tomato sauce evenly over its surface, then scatter on the provolone and smoked mozzarella. Sprinkle on the sausage mixture, followed by the chard leaves. Scatter on the onion, followed by the Asiago.

Bake until the pizza is golden brown and the edges are deeply caramelized, about 25 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, loosen the sides and bottom of the pizza, then slide it onto a cutting board. Slice into 12 pieces and serve warm.

Slab Pizza with Portobello Mushrooms and Lemon-Garlic Ricotta:

Follow the recipe to prepare the baking sheet, make the dough and heat the oven, positioning the racks in the upper- and lower-middle positions. While the dough is resting, make the toppings. On another rimmed baking sheet, toss together 1½ pounds portobello mushroom caps (gills scraped, caps halved and sliced ½ inch thick), 10 medium garlic cloves (smashed and peeled), 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar and 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Distribute in an even layer, then roast on the upper rack until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside; leave the oven on. While the mushrooms roast, in a medium bowl, stir together a 15- or 16-ounce container whole-milk ricotta, ¼ cup heavy cream, 4 ounces (1 cup) shredded fontina cheese, 1 ounce (½ cup) finely grated Parmesan cheese, 2 medium garlic cloves (finely grated), 1½ cups lightly packed fresh parsley (chopped), 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice, ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, ¼ teaspoon each kosher salt and ground black pepper; set aside. When the dough is ready, uncover it and evenly spread the ricotta mixture over the surface, then scatter on the mushroom mixture. Sprinkle with an additional 1 ounce (½ cup) finely grated Parmesan cheese. Bake, cool and remove from the pan as directed. Serve sprinkled with additional chopped parsley and a drizzle of balsamic.

Slab Pizza with Eggplant, Two Cheeses and Basil:

Follow the recipe to prepare the baking sheet, make the dough and heat the oven, positioning the racks in the upper- and lower-middle positions. While the dough is resting, make the toppings. In a large bowl, toss 2 pounds globe eggplant (peeled lengthwise in strips spaced about an inch apart, then sliced into ½-inch rounds) with 1 teaspoon kosher salt; let stand, tossing occasionally, for 15 minutes. Brush another rimmed baking sheet with 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Using paper towels, pat the eggplant slices dry and place on the oiled baking sheet, shingling as needed to fit. Brush the eggplant with another 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and roast on the upper-middle rack until golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside; leave the oven on. When the dough is ready, uncover it, then scatter 4 ounces (1 cup) shredded fontina cheese over the surface and top with the eggplant. Spoon Simple Tomato Sauce for Pizza evenly over the surface, then layer on 1 pound fresh mozzarella cheese (sliced ¼ inch thick and patted dry); sprinkle with ½ cup lightly packed fresh basil (torn, if large) and 2 ounces (1 cup) finely grated Parmesan cheese. Bake, cool and remove from the pan as directed. Serve sprinkled with additional torn basil.