Two-Cheese Gougères
- MakesMakes 12 3-inch gougères
- Cook Time1¼ hours
- Active time plus cooling40 minutes active, plus refrigeration and cooling
- 1
Gougères are cheese puffs made from pâte à choux (also known as choux paste), the same light, airy pastry that is the basis of so many classic French desserts, including éclairs and profiteroles. Edward Delling-Williams of The Presbytere restaurant in Normandy, France, showed us how he makes extra-large gougères (most are smallish two- or three-bite affairs, whereas his were biscuit-sized). For our adaptation, we use Comté cheese (Gruyère works, too, though its flavor is milder) plus a little Parmesan. We incorporate a majority of the cheese before adding the eggs, which gave us gougères that were more flavorful throughout and with smoother exteriors. A little Dijon mustard balances the richness of the butter and cheese. Serve as an appetizer or as part of a charcuterie board. Or split them like buns and fill them with sliced cured meats and cheese to make elegant sandwiches.
Don’t add the flour to the butter-water mixture until the butter has melted and the water is boiling, otherwise the flour won’t gelatinize and the choux paste won’t hold its shape. After adding the cheeses, don’t overmix, which may cause the fat from the Comté to separate.
Step 1
In a medium saucepan over medium-high, bring 1½ cups water, the butter, mustard, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper to a boil, stirring occasionally. When the butter is fully melted, remove from the heat immediately and add the flour. Using a wooden spoon, stir until the mixture forms an evenly moistened paste that resembles mashed potatoes.
Step 2
Set the pan over medium-low and cook, stirring, until the paste is smooth, shiny and pulls away from the sides, about 5 minutes; a film will develop on the bottom and in the corners of the pan. Transfer the paste to the bowl of a stand mixer. Immediately add the Parmesan and 3 ounces (¾ cup) of the Comté. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low until the cheeses are fully incorporated and emulsified into the paste, about 30 seconds. Mix for 1 minute to slightly cool the mixture, then turn off the mixer and let stand until just warm to the touch, about 5 minutes.
Step 3
Add 1 egg and mix on low until thoroughly incorporated, about 30 seconds. Add the remaining 3 eggs in the same way. Increase to medium and mix until thick, sticky and batter-like, about 2 minutes. Detach the paddle attachment and scrape off the paste that clings. Scrape the sides of the bowl and gather the paste at the center. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
Step 4
Twenty minutes before you are ready to bake, heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the middle position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment. When ready to bake, remove the choux paste from the refrigerator. Using a finger, dab a little paste between the parchment and baking sheet in each corner to keep it from moving.
Step 5
Moisten a 2-inch spring-loaded ice cream scoop or a ⅓-cup dry measuring cup and a small silicone spatula with water, then use it to drop 12 mounds of choux paste, evenly spaced in three rows of four, onto the prepared baking sheet. Using a water-moistened finger or the back of a teaspoon dipped in water, smooth out any peaks without flattening the mounds. Sprinkle the remaining 1 ounce (¼ cup) Comté over the portions.
Step 6
Bake until the gougères are puffed and deep golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, immediately transfer them to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
