Tonkatsu
- Makes4-6 servings
- Cook Time1¼ hours
- Active time plus coolingplus refrigeration
In Tokyo, Chef Masato Ishizuki showed us his method for tonkatsu, or fried cutlets. The key is fresh panko—Japanese breadcrumbs with a coarse, fluffy texture—as they are slower to brown, giving the pork the time it needs to cook through in the oil. Panko sold here in the U.S. is always dried, so our only choice was to process our own. If you cannot source Japanese milk bread, a hearty white sandwich loaf works nearly as well. Avoid bread with a squishy-soft crumb. Freezing the bread, then pulsing in small batches in a food processor is the best way to achieve proper texture. Either tenderloins or 1-inch-thick boneless loin chops work well here, and we dry-brine the pork for a few hours for better flavor and texture. Don’t skip the tonkatsu sauce, nor the thinly sliced green cabbage accompaniment.
Don’t freeze the bread uncovered. If the pieces lose their moisture, you’ll end up with panko that is too dry. When processing the bread, work in batches, filling the food-processor bowl only a quarter of the way. This prevents the blade from getting gummed up and the crumbs will be more even. During frying, make sure to skim away any panko that ends up floating in the oil so the bits don’t scorch. If you’re diligent about this, the oil can be strained and reused.
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