Toasted Tacos with Adobo Beans and Cheese
- Makes4 to 6 servings
- Cook Time40 minutes
- 2
At Restaurante Bar Fernando, a casual eatery in Nayarit on the west coast of Mexico, we tasted simple bean- and cheese-filled tortillas, folded in half and lightly charred. The tacos are a typical side to pescado zarandeado, seasoned fish slow-cooked on an outdoor grill. The beans were so flavorful that we wanted to re-create the tacos at Milk Street. According to Paola Briseño-González, recipe developer and native of the neighboring Mexican state of Jalisco, azufrado is the regional bean variety used in those tacos, and adobo (a blend of earthy, smoky dried chilies plus aromatics and vinegar) is the flavoring. Azufrado beans are difficult to source in the U.S., so we used widely available pintos. Dried chilies, garlic, cumin, oregano and cider vinegar pureed in a blender, then simmered into the beans, mimic the adobo flavors.
Don’t skip the step of brushing the tortillas with oil and warming them. These steps help ensure the tortillas don’t dry out and crack when filled and folded.
Step 1
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high, toast the chilies, garlic and cumin, stirring, until fragrant and the chilies and garlic are browned in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a blender; reserve the skillet. To the blender, add the vinegar, oregano, ½ cup water, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Puree on high until smooth, about 2 minutes; set aside.
Step 2
In the same skillet over medium-high, heat the lard until shimmering. Add the beans and chili puree; cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are soft and the pan is dry, about 3 minutes. Working quickly, use a potato masher to mash the beans until relatively smooth. Cook, stirring, until the mixture is thick, about 1 minute. Transfer to a medium bowl, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Wipe out the skillet and set it aside.
Step 3
Lightly brush both sides of each tortilla with neutral oil. Set the skillet over medium and heat until water flicked onto the surface sizzles and evaporates within seconds. One at a time, warm the tortillas in the skillet, flipping once, until pliable, 20 to 30 seconds per side. As they are done, stack the tortillas on a plate and cover with foil to keep warm. Reserve the skillet.
Step 4
Lay 2 or 3 warm tortillas on the counter; keep the remaining tortillas covered. Spread 3 tablespoons of the bean mixture over the entire surface, followed by about 2 tablespoons of the cheese. Fold each tortilla in half and press lightly to seal. Using the remaining bean mixture and cheese, fill the remaining tortillas in the same way.
Step 5
Set the skillet over medium and once again heat until water flicked onto the surface quickly sizzles and evaporates. Place 4 filled tortillas in the pan and cook, occasionally flipping with a metal spatula, until lightly browned on both sides and crisp at the edges, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a serving platter. Toast the remaining tortillas in the same way. Serve warm.
