Tiramisù

In Treviso, where tiramisù was born, we were shown how to make the dessert by Linda Maria Botter of Camelia Bakery, whose tiramisù was voted best in the city. The lesson: Simplicity is best. Many recipes start with cooking a zabaglione, a yolk-rich custard that requires careful monitoring, so it was a revelation that raw egg yolks and sugar simply whipped until voluminous make a lighter, better tiramisù. Mascarpone gently whisked into the base completes the filling. Espresso is the classic soaking liquid for the ladyfingers, but we found strong brewed coffee to be equally good. Avoid espresso made from instant powder; it tastes thin and flat. The lack of rum is not an oversight; it’s not common in Italy. The type of ladyfingers to use here have the texture of dry sponge cake. On package labels, they sometimes are called savoiardi biscuits; you will need one 7-ounce package. In Treviso, tiramisù often is assembled in individual portions. We offer the option to make six servings in 8-ounce ramekins or a family-style version in an 8-inch square dish. This is an ideal make-ahead dessert. Once assembled, it will keep in the refrigerator for up to two days. Note: the egg yolks in this recipe are not cooked.