Three-Citrus Tea Cake

Many cakes are made with the creaming method in which the butter and sugar are beaten until light and fluffy before the other ingredients are incorporated. This batter, however, uses reverse creaming, a method popularized by cookbook author and baking authority Rose Levy Beranbaum. Softened butter is mixed into the dry ingredients, followed by the liquids; only then is the batter mixed for aeration. Reverse creaming yields an exceptionally tender, sueded crumb, perfect for this loaf cake. We include almond flour for more complex flavor and texture than all-purpose flour alone can deliver. A trio of citrus—orange, lemon and lime—brighten up both the cake and glaze. Store leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days.