Thai Stir-Fried Noodles with Chicken (Kuay Tiew Kua Gai)
- Makes4 servings
- Cook Time40 minutes
- 1
The stir-fried noodles called kuay tiew kua gai are a classic street food in Thailand, but here in the U.S., they’re the lesser-known cousin of sweet-sour-savory pad Thai and soy-centric pad see ew. The name translates, dully, as “stir-fried chicken noodles,” which undersells this simple, deeply satisfying dish. The flavors are savory, umami-rich and only subtly sweet, with a smokiness and char that comes from wok hei, the distinctive—and hard-to-achieve-at-home—taste of cooking in a well-seasoned wok licked by flames. We learned in Bangkok that there’s no right or wrong way to season kuay tiew kua gai, but that rice noodles, chicken and egg are the core ingredients. Our version is informed by the stir-fry chef Piched Kaewhem taught us, but since fresh wide rice noodles are hard to come by in supermarkets, we opted to use the widest—½ inch—dried rice stick noodles available. To develop as much wok hei as possible, we fry the soaked and drained noodles, allowing them to sizzle and lightly char before adding seasonings. Kuay tiew kua gai itself is not spicy, but it’s served with a vinegary hot sauce such as Sriracha and lime wedges for a bold, bright finish.
Don’t soak the noodles in boiling or scalding-hot water. This will tenderize them to the point of mushiness and they’ll fall apart and stick when stir-frying. Also, don’t worry if the noodles stick a bit when they’re added to the pan. After pouring in the sauce mixture, be sure to scrape up the sticky bits.
Step 1
Put the noodles in a large bowl and add hot water to cover (the water should feel just hot to the touch, not scalding). Let stand, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes; the noodles will become pliable but not fully tender. Drain in a colander; shake to remove excess water and set near the stove.
Step 2
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, toss the chicken with 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce, 1 teaspoon of the sugar and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper; set aside. In another small bowl, stir together the remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, remaining 1½ tablespoons sugar, ¼ cup water, oyster sauce, ¼ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper.
Step 3
In a 12- to 14-inch wok over high or a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until smoking. Add the chicken and cook, stirring only a few times, until caramelized and charred in spots, about 2 minutes. Stir in the carrot followed by the garlic and cook, stirring, until the garlic is golden and aromatic, about 30 seconds. Push the chicken mixture up the sides of the wok, creating a clearing in the center. Add 1 tablespoon oil to the clearing, then add the eggs. Cook, stirring, until the curds are barely set, about 30 seconds, then stir the chicken mixture into the eggs, breaking up any large curds. Scrape the mixture onto a plate and set aside; wipe out the wok.
Step 4
Return the wok to high and heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil until barely smoking. Add the noodles. Cook, tossing and moving the noodles in a circular motion against the sides of the wok, until they are sizzling and no longer stark white and have developed some charred spots, 1½ to 2 minutes; it’s fine if the noodles stick to the pan in spots. Pour the sauce mixture over the noodles and cook, tossing and scraping up any browned bits, until the noodles are tender and have absorbed the sauce, about 2 minutes.
Step 5
Add the chicken mixture and any accumulated juices, along with the scallions. Cook, tossing, until well combined and the chicken is opaque throughout, about 1 minute. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a platter. Serve with lime wedges and Sriracha.
