Spicy-Sweet Dry Curried Squash

Indian kaddu ki sabzi inspired this wonderfully fragrant, richly flavored dry curry. In place of kaddu, or pumpkin, we opted to use varieties of winter squash—namely acorn or delicata—that are similar in texture and taste to pumpkin but have thin, edible skins and are easier to prep. Warm, complex spicing comes from a mix of sweet and savory spices, both whole and ground, as well as from blooming the whole spices in oil. Dried árbol chilies are optional; their subtly fruity flavor and earthiness work beautifully with the squash. Fenugreek seeds are also optional but worth seeking out. You’ll recognize their unique aroma from curry powder—it’s a key ingredient in the spice blend—but on its own fenugreek features heady notes of mustard and maple. A good measure of brown sugar accentuates the natural sweetness of the squash and balances the spices, while a little lemon juice—a stand-in for amchoor, or green mango powder—brightens the dish with its acidity. Serve as a side or vegetarian main, with warm flatbread on the side.