Savory Greens Tart with Pancetta and Parmesan (Erbazzone)
- Makes8 servings
- 3
In Bologna, home cook Paola Tassi made us her version of erbazzone. The savory tart, a speciality of the Emilia-Romagna region, typically features a filling of wild greens and pancetta in a pork fat-enriched crust. In the filling, we tested everything from spinach to broccoli rabe, but preferred a duo of Swiss chard and lacinato kale for their combination of textures and flavor. Beet greens work well in place of chard—just be sure to cook the mixture a few minutes extra to ensure the sturdier beet greens are fully tender. As for the crust—we opted for butter over pork fat, but to mimic the savoriness of lard, we add a little grated Parmesan cheese to the dough. We also experimented with shaping methods, including a double-crusted tart formed in a pie plate and a more svelte version in a French-style fluted pan. Our favorite was a rustic, freeform, crostata-like iteration. This gave each slice an ideal crust to filling ratio. More importantly, its open top allowed steam from the greens to evaporate in the oven, creating an evenly browned tart with no soggy bottom.
Don’t roll the dough too thin. A sturdy base is essential for supporting the mound of braised greens. Also, be sure to strain and press the greens after cooking them. You don’t need to be aggressive, but removing extra moisture will make for a crisp bottom crust.
Step 1
To make the crust, in a food processor, combine the flour, Parmesan and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt; pulse 3 or 4 times. Scatter about 42 grams (3 tablespoons) butter over the flour mixture and process until well incorporated, 15 to 20 seconds. Scatter in the remaining butter, then pulse until broken into pieces no larger than small peas, 10 to 12 pulses. Drizzle the ice water over the mixture, then pulse until curdy clumps form, 12 to 15 pulses.
Step 2
Turn the dough out onto the counter. Gather and press it firmly into a disk about 6 inches in diameter. Wrap tightly in plastic, smoothing out the edges and forming the disk into a neat round. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes while you prepare the filling (or up to 2 days). Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the middle position.
Step 3
To make the filling, in a large pot over medium-high, combine the oil, pancetta, onion, chard stems, pepper flakes and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the chard leaves and kale a handful at a time, stirring until wilted after each. Add ½ cup water and ¼ teaspoon salt, then scrape up any browned bits. Cover, reduce to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens are wilted and tender, 7 to 9 minutes.
Step 4
Drain the mixture in a colander set in the sink. Using a spatula or spoon, press the greens to remove excess moisture. Return the mixture to the pot, then stir in the Parmesan and scallions. Taste and season with salt and black pepper.
Step 5
Remove the chilled dough from the refrigerator. If it is too firm to roll out, let it stand at room temperature 5 to 10 minutes. Lightly flour a sheet of kitchen parchment that will fit onto a rimmed baking sheet. Unwrap the dough and set it on the parchment. Using a rolling pin, roll it into a 14- to 15-inch circle. Slide the parchment with the dough onto a rimmed baking sheet.
Step 6
Mound the filling in the center of the dough, leaving a 2-inch border around the edge; it’s fine if the filling is still slightly warm. Working in one direction around the circumference of the dough, fold the edge toward the center and up onto but not entirely covering the filling, pleating it at intervals as you go. Gently press the pleats so they remain in place.
Step 7
Brush the dough liberally with oil. Bake until the crust is golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes, rotating the baking sheet halfway through. Cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack for about 30 minutes. Slide a wide metal spatula under the tart to loosen it from the parchment and transfer to a platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.
