Salmon with Spanish Ham and Hard Cider

Salmón a la ribereña is a classic dish from Asturias, Spain, an area along the northwestern coast famous for its apples and cider. Oven-baking is a common cooking method for fish prepared this way, but here we lightly sear the fillets on one side on the stovetop, then finish them, covered with thin slices of dry-cured ham, in a moderately hot oven. Once the salmon is out of the pan, we make a simple sauce with shallots, hard cider and butter. Opt for jamón serrano, a dry-cured ham from Spain, if you can find it; we find the darker-hued meat to have a richer, more intense flavor than Italian prosciutto, but prosciutto is perfectly delicious (and more affordable). Cooked according to the recipe, the salmon is medium in doneness (120°F), showing just a little translucency at the center; for salmon that is opaque throughout, leave the fillets in the oven for an additional 3 to 5 minutes. To round out the meal, serve with steamed and buttered potatoes and/or a crisp, leafy salad.