Romanian Musaca

In Bucharest, at Bucătăria, a restaurant owned by brothers Adrian and Gabriel Alexe, we were introduced to hearty, stick-to-the-ribs Romanian musaca di cartofi. A relative of better-known Greek moussaka, the dish layers precooked sliced potatoes with a paprika-enriched tomato-meat sauce, then is topped with a thick soured cream called smântâna, plus shredded cheese. Spanish smoked paprika gave the Alexe brothers’ musaca rich, woodsy notes and a more robust character than standard sweet paprika. Also from Spain, Manchego cheese approximates the Romanian sheep’s milk cheese called horezu that topped the casserole, but cheddar also is a fine substitute. If you’re serving a crowd, the recipe can be doubled and assembled in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. And if you have leftovers, cover with foil and place in a 350°F oven until a skewer inserted into the center comes out warm (timing will vary depending on the quantity being reheated). Briny cornichons and pickled sweet peppers, offered on the side, are delicious foils for the richness of the musaca.