We learned the principles of risotto from two chefs in Milan, Max Masuelli (and his son, Andrea) at Trattoria Masuelli San Marco, who use neither chicken broth nor onion, and Diego Rossi, of Trippa, who showed us that skipping the traditional wine and adding a splash of sherry vinegar at the end produced bright flavor (we used white balsamic). Arborio rice is the most common choice for risotto in the U.S., but cooks in Milan—and at Milk Street—preferred carnaroli. We found that the grains better retained their structure and resisted overcooking. With careful cooking, however, Arborio will yield delicious results. A quick six-ingredient homemade vegetable broth is the best cooking liquid for this risotto; its fresh, clean flavor won't compete with the other ingredients. Serve in warmed, shallow bowls to prevent the rice from cooling too quickly. If you want to try Milan's trademark saffron version, which pairs well with roasted and braised meats, see the following variation.

Arborio rice is the most common choice for risotto in the U.S., but cooks in Milan—and at Milk Street—preferred carnaroli. However, Arborio works well with careful cooking. Serve in warmed, shallow bowls.