Risotto alla Milanese
- Makes4 servings
- Cook Time40 minutes
- 1
Risotto alla milanese gets its warm golden color and opulent flavor from saffron. The dish, a specialty of Milan, is the classic accompaniment to osso buco, or braised veal shanks, which also is a signature dish from the Lombardy region of northern Italy. Our iteration is based on risotto lessons learned at Trattoria Masuelli San Marco, where Max Masuelli and his son, Andrea, are at the helm, and at Trattoria Trippa, where Diego Rossi is chef. Medium-grain Italian rice is essential for achieving risotto with a rich, creamy consistency, as it has the ideal starch content. Arborio rice is the most common choice in the U.S., but in Milan—as well as at Milk Street—carnaroli is the preferred variety. We found that the grains better retained their structure and resisted overcooking. With careful cooking, however, Arborio will yield delicious results. A quick five-ingredient homemade vegetable broth (recipe follows) is the best cooking liquid for this risotto; its fresh, clean flavor won't compete with the other ingredients. Serve in warmed, shallow bowls to prevent the rice from cooling too quickly.
Don’t add the saffron to the saucepan of broth. Instead, remove ½ cup of the hot broth and steep the threads in that measured amount while you start the risotto. This way, all the saffron will make it into the rice even if you wind up with extra unused broth.
Step 1
In a medium saucepan over medium, bring the broth, covered, to a simmer. Reduce to low to keep warm. In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine ½ cup of the hot broth and the saffron; set aside.
Step 2
In a large saucepan over medium-high, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add the rice and cook, stirring, until translucent at the edges, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2 cups of the hot broth and bring to a boil, then reduce to medium and cook, stirring often and briskly, until most of the liquid is absorbed, 8 to 10 minutes; adjust the heat as needed to maintain a vigorous simmer. Add another 1½ cups hot broth and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed, 6 to 9 minutes.
Step 3
Add the saffron broth and cook, stirring often and briskly, until the rice is just shy of al dente but still soupy, 3 to 5 minutes. If the rice is thick and dry or the grains are still too firm, add the remaining hot broth in ¼-cup increments and cook, stirring, until the rice is loose but not soupy and the grains are tender, with just a little firmness at the center.
Step 4
Off heat, quickly stir in the Parmesan, the remaining 4 tablespoons butter and ¼ teaspoon salt; it’s fine if the butter and cheese do not fully melt. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes. (Reserve the remaining hot broth in the saucepan for adjusting the consistency of the risotto at the end, if needed.)
Step 5
Stir to fully incorporate the butter and cheese, then stir in the vinegar. If the risotto is stiff and dry, stir in additional broth, a couple tablespoons at a time, until the risotto is “loose” but not soupy. Taste and season with salt. Serve immediately.