Risotto alla Milanese

Risotto alla milanese gets its warm golden color and opulent flavor from saffron. The dish, a specialty of Milan, is the classic accompaniment to osso buco, or braised veal shanks, which also is a signature dish from the Lombardy region of northern Italy. Our iteration is based on risotto lessons learned at Trattoria Masuelli San Marco, where Max Masuelli and his son, Andrea, are at the helm, and at Trattoria Trippa, where Diego Rossi is chef. Medium-grain Italian rice is essential for achieving risotto with a rich, creamy consistency, as it has the ideal starch content. Arborio rice is the most common choice in the U.S., but in Milan—as well as at Milk Street—carnaroli is the preferred variety. We found that the grains better retained their structure and resisted overcooking. With careful cooking, however, Arborio will yield delicious results. A quick five-ingredient homemade vegetable broth (recipe follows) is the best cooking liquid for this risotto; its fresh, clean flavor won't compete with the other ingredients. Serve in warmed, shallow bowls to prevent the rice from cooling too quickly.