Ragù Bolognese

We learned how to make ragù Bolognese at chef Alberto Bettini’s Michelin-starred Amerigo restaurant outside Bologna. After several tests in the Milk Street kitchen, we determined beef and pork that we ground ourselves in a food processor yielded superlative flavor and texture; supermarket ground meats made insipid sauces. Also, try to purchase pancetta in a large chunk from the deli counter, and if it comes in casing-like plastic, make sure to remove and discard the wrap before use. The next best option is packaged already diced pancetta; if pre-sliced is the only option, it will work, but will cost a lot more. Since the ragù demands several hours of slow simmering, we depend on the oven to get the job done, as its even, steady heat means hands-off cooking. The amount of fat that rises to the surface of the finished sauce will vary, depending on the fattiness of the meats. When cooking is complete, skim off and discard as little or as much as you like, bearing in mind that at least some is desirable for silkiness and richness of flavor. The finished ragù can be cooled to room temperature and refrigerated for up to three days. This recipe makes enough sauce for lasagna Bolognese, with leftovers for another night’s pasta dinner.

-Editor's Note, 2/24/25: We recently redeveloped this recipe, which originally appeared in the March-April 2020 issue of Milk Street Magazine, as well as season four of Milk Street Television. You can find the previous version in our cookbook "Noodles."