Pecorino “Meatballs” in Tomato Sauce
- Makes4-6 servings
- Cook Time50 minutes
- 5
At Checchino dal 1887, a restaurant in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood, we were introduced to pallotte cacio e ova, or cheese and egg balls. The dish exemplifies the cooking of cucina povera, which takes simple, local ingredients and transforms them into hearty, comforting sustenance. A generous amount of pecorino Romano, plus eggs, breadcrumbs and a few aromatics are combined to form a dough-like mixture. We also add some nutty Parmesan to balance pecorino’s funkiness. Formed into spheres and fried in olive oil, the meat-free “meatballs” are toothsome and umami-rich from the cheeses, but also boast a fritter-like crispness and browning on their exteriors. After frying, the “meatballs” are finished in a quick-simmered four-ingredient (not counting the salt and pepper) tomato sauce that balances their savoriness. For minimal knife work, we use a food processor to first make the breadcrumbs, then to blitz together the cheese, garlic and basil. Pallotte cacio e ova makes a fine first course, or a satisfying dinner that happens to be vegetarian.
Don’t use pre-grated cheeses for this recipe, as they are too dry and dusty. Pecorino and Parmesan, each purchased in a chunk, are essential not only for best flavor but also for achieving the right texture and degree of moistness in the “meatball” mixture. When selecting pieces, make sure to take the rind into account, as it will need to be trimmed before use.
Step 1
To make the sauce, in a large saucepan over medium-high, combine the oil and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the garlic is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes with juices, basil sprigs, 1 cup water and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer, then reduce to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.
Step 2
Meanwhile, to make the meatballs, in a food processor, process the bread until broken down into fine crumbs, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a large bowl. To the food processor, add the pecorino, Parmesan, basil, garlic and oregano; process until the ingredients are finely chopped, about 1 minute. Add the cheese mixture to the breadcrumbs along with the eggs and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Using a silicone spatula, stir until evenly moistened and homogeneous. Pinch off a 1-tablespoon portion and roll it between your hands into a ball, or pallotte, then place on a large plate. Form the remaining mixture in the same way; you will have about 20 balls.
Step 3
In a 12-inch skillet over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the pallotti and cook, occasionally turning them with a slotted spoon, until golden brown all over, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to a paper towel-lined plate as they are done.
Step 4
When all the “meatballs'” have been fried, remove and discard the garlic and basil sprigs from the sauce. Re-cover, then return the sauce to a simmer over medium. Gently lower the pallotti into the sauce, then cook, gently stirringly, until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Divide the pallotti among serving bowls and spoon the sauce over and around them. Serve sprinkled with chopped basil and additional pecorino.