Pecorino “Meatballs” in Tomato Sauce

At Checchino dal 1887, a restaurant in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood, we were introduced to pallotte cacio e ova, or cheese and egg balls. The dish exemplifies the cooking of cucina povera, which takes simple, local ingredients and transforms them into hearty, comforting sustenance. A generous amount of pecorino Romano, plus eggs, breadcrumbs and a few aromatics are combined to form a dough-like mixture. We also add some nutty Parmesan to balance pecorino’s funkiness. Formed into spheres and fried in olive oil, the meat-free “meatballs” are toothsome and umami-rich from the cheeses, but also boast a fritter-like crispness and browning on their exteriors. After frying, the “meatballs” are finished in a quick-simmered four-ingredient (not counting the salt and pepper) tomato sauce that balances their savoriness. For minimal knife work, we use a food processor to first make the breadcrumbs, then to blitz together the cheese, garlic and basil. Pallotte cacio e ova makes a fine first course, or a satisfying dinner that happens to be vegetarian.