Penne Strascicate (Penne "Dragged" Through Ragù)

Adapted by Lawman JohnsonMarch 9, 2026

Makes
4-6 servings
Cook Time
2 hours

This unique Tuscan pasta dish from Trattoria Sergio Gozzi in Florence is made with spices that add complexity and aromas uncommon in an Italian ragù. Owner Alessandro Gozzi sneaks in a little besciamella—or roux-thickened white sauce—at the end to lend some richness and luster while marrying the ragù and pasta. The technique of boiling the noodles until only partially cooked, then finishing them in the sauce is key here. In fact, it lends the dish its name. Strascicare means “to drag,” the action that describes stirring the parboiled pasta in the ragù during the last stages of cooking to prevent sticking to the pot. Penne is the classic shape for this dish, but other tubular shapes work as well.

Tip

Don’t boil the pasta until al dente. Drain it when it when it’s a good deal shy of al dente—tender on the outside but still very firm and underdone at the core. (Start checking doneness about 5 minutes before the recommended cooking time on the package.) This ensures the pasta will not end up overdone after cooking in the ragù.

Ingredients

For the ragù:
¼
cup extra-virgin olive oil
2
medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped
2
medium celery stalks, finely chopped
1
medium red onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
8
ounces 80 percent lean ground beef
8
ounces ground pork
1
teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed
1
teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
¼
teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼
teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
6
ounce can tomato paste (⅔ cup)
4
medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
½
cup dry white wine
2
bay leaves
For the besciamella:
1
tablespoon salted butter
1½
tablespoons all-purpose flour
1
cup half-and-half
1
ounce Parmesan cheese, finely grated (½ cup)
For the pasta and serving:
1
pound penne
Kosher salt
Finely grated Parmesan cheese, to serve

Step 1

To make the ragù, in a large Dutch oven over medium-low, combine the oil, the carrots, celery, onion, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are fully softened but not browned, 25 to 30 minutes.

Step 2

Increase to medium, then add the beef, pork, coriander, fennel, cinnamon and nutmeg; cook, stirring occasionally and breaking the meat into small pieces, until the meat is no longer pink, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the tomato paste and garlic; cook, stirring, until the tomato paste darkens slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until almost fully evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add 3 cups water and the bay, then bring to a simmer over medium-high. Reduce to medium-low and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender and the liquid has reduced by about half, 30 to 35 minutes.

Step 3

Meanwhile, make the besciamella. In a small saucepan over medium, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 2 minutes. While whisking, gradually add the half-and-half, then bring to a simmer. Cook, whisking often, until the sauce thickens and no longer tastes of raw starch, 3 to 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in the Parmesan; set aside until ready to use.

Step 4

About 20 minutes into simmering the ragù, cook the pasta. In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add the penne and 2 tablespoons salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is somewhat softened but still very firm at the core (begin testing about 5 minutes before the recommended cooking time on the package). Drain the pasta in a colander.

Step 5

When the ragù is ready, remove and discard the bay, then add the besciamella; cook over medium-low, stirring, until the mixture is slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the pasta, stirring to coat and break up clumps. Cook, stirring and “dragging” the pasta through the sauce, until the pasta is al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan.