Pakistani Chicken Karahi (Spicy Tomato-Chicken Curry)

Spicy and warming with hints of sweetness and acidity from tomatoes, chicken karahi is named for the shallow, wok-like pan in which it is cooked. In Lahore, Pakistan, we tasted multiple versions, and once back in the Milk Street kitchen, we combined our favorite attributes of each. We found that a 12-inch skillet worked as well as a karahi—its large surface area quickly concentrates flavor and consistency. We tried canned tomatoes, but they lacked the freshness we sought, so we opted instead for a combination of fresh plum tomatoes, grated down to the skins on a box grater, and tomato paste for color and intensity. From Asli Fresh Tikka Shop, we learned to stir a little yogurt into our chicken karahi; chef Mani Mirza included yogurt as well, but he also added butter, which inspired us to use ghee as the cooking fat (equal parts butter and oil is a good stand-in for the ghee). The duo of dairy provided just the right richness to balance the spices and tomatoes. The curry can be on the table in under an hour. Serve with basmati rice, naan or both.