Pakistani-Style Chicken Biryani
- Makes8 to 10 servings
- Cook Time2½ hours
- Active time plus cooling1½ hours active
- 17
In Lahore, Pakistan, we learned different ways to make biryani, a multi-layered dish of rice and meat, all boldly seasoned with spices and aromatics. Based on lessons we learned from street vendor Mohammed Muzmil and chefs Muneeze Khalid and Gulnaz Siddique, we developed a streamlined version that still delivers the depth and richness of a classic biryani. Tradition calls for parboiling the rice, but we found that simply soaking it in salted water for 30 minutes worked just as well to produce the fluffy, tender grains we wanted. Inspired by Muzmil’s matka-style biryani—which prepares the entire dish in a single clay pot—we created a dish that works wonderfully in a Dutch oven. It starts on the stovetop, then is finished in the oven, where steady heat ensures even, hands-off cooking. If you wish to add a fresh hit of chili heat, sprinkle on some thinly sliced serrano chilies just before serving.
Don’t forget to cover the pot while the chicken and potatoes cook. This retains moisture for a succulent, flavor-rich dish. As soon as you remove the pot from the oven, quickly uncover it and lay a towel across the top (do not replace the lid). While the rice finishes steaming off heat, the towel absorbs vapors that otherwise would drip back onto the biryani.
Step 1
In a large bowl, combine the rice and 1 tablespoon salt. Add water to cover by 1 inch, then set aside for 30 minutes. If using saffron, in a liquid measuring cup or small bowl, combine ½ cup water and the saffron threads; set aside.
Step 2
Drain the rice in a fine-mesh strainer, then rinse under cool water and drain again. Heat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the lower-middle position.
Step 3
In a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil and 2 tablespoons ghee until shimmering. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until softened and jammy, with some areas of deep caramelization, 15 to 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate; set aside.
Step 4
To the pot, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil along with the garlic, ginger, bay and cumin seeds; cook over medium, stirring, until fragrant and the garlic is lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the garam masala, cardamom, turmeric, chili powder, cloves and ½ teaspoon pepper, then add the chicken, potato, tomato puree, apricots, ½ cup water and 1½ teaspoons salt. Stir, scraping up any browned bits, then cover and cook, stirring once or twice, until the potato is tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
Step 5
Remove the pot from heat. Add the yogurt, half of the onions and 2 tablespoons of the mint; stir, scraping along the bottom of the pot. Distribute in an even layer, then sprinkle on half of the rice; do not stir. Scatter the remaining onions over the rice, followed by 2 tablespoons of the remaining mint. Distribute the remaining rice in an even layer on top, then drizzle with the 2 tablespoons melted ghee and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the remaining mint. Lay the tomato slices and lemon slices in an even layer on top.
Step 6
Slowly pour the saffron water (if using) or ½ cup plain water down the side of the pot, taking care not to disturb the rice. Bring to a vigorous simmer over medium-high, then cover and transfer to the oven. Bake until the rice has absorbed the liquid, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the oven, uncover and drape a kitchen towel across the top; do not replace the lid. Let rest for 10 minutes.
Step 7
If desired, remove and discard the lemon slices. Using a large spoon, fold together the layers and fluff the rice by stirring up from the bottom. Remove and discard the bay. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with the remaining 2 tablespoons mint; offer yogurt alongside for drizzling.
