The Original Spaghetti and Meatballs (Pasta alla Chitarra con Pallottine)
- Makes6 to 8 servings
- Cook Time1½ hours
- 15
In towns across the Abruzzo region in central Italy, we learned to make a local specialty: pasta alla chitarra con pallottine, the ancestor of Italian American spaghetti and meatballs. Pasta alla chitarra, the pasta used in Italy, is a long strand shape that’s squared off instead of round like spaghetti, and the meatballs are marble-sized orbs that get tangled in the pasta and are so small they don’t require cutting (pallottine translates as “pellets” or “small balls”). Pasta alla chitarra is available in many supermarkets, but if you’re not able to find it, bucatini works nicely, as does spaghetti, but ideally, use a brand that is bronze die-cut, which leaves the noodles with a rough, porous surface that better grips the sauce. Meatloaf mix, a combination of ground pork, beef and veal, is ideal for tender, flavorful meatballs. If the meat counter doesn’t offer meatloaf mix, 8 ounces each of ground pork and 80 percent lean ground beef can be used in its place. Browning a portion of seasoned meat mixture, which includes both egg and Parmesan, along with the aromatics, creates drippings in the pot that lend the sauce rich, deep, meaty flavor.
Don’t be tempted to make the meatballs larger. They don’t need to be perfectly round or uniform in size, but they should be small enough so they integrate into the strands of pasta. Also, be sure to drain the pasta when it’s still very underdone. Taste a piece; it should be tender only at the exterior and still quite firm at the core. The pasta will finish cooking directly in the sauce, resulting in noodles that have absorbed flavor and are deliciously coated with sauce.
Step 1
In a medium bowl, beat the egg with a fork. Add the meatloaf mix, ¼ cup of the Parmesan, 2 tablespoons of the parsley, the nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt and ¾ teaspoon pepper. Using your hands, mix and knead the mixture until homogeneous; set aside.
Step 2
In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat ¼ cup of the oil until shimmering. Add the onion, carrot, celery, tomato paste, ⅓ cup of the meatball mixture, the remaining 2 tablespoons parsley and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and the mixture is brown and sticking to the pot, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes with juices, sugar, 1 cup water and ½ teaspoon pepper. Bring to a simmer, scraping up the browned bits. Reduce to medium-low, cover partially and cook, stirring occasionally, until a spoon drawn through the mixture leaves a trail, 30 to 35 minutes.
Step 3
While the sauce simmers, line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment. Form the remaining meatball mixture into ½-inch balls (about ½ teaspoon each) and place on the baking sheet. Refrigerate, uncovered, until ready to use. Fill a large pot with 4 quarts water and bring to a boil.
Step 4
When the sauce is ready and the water is boiling, use your hands to add the meatballs several at a time to the sauce. Cover, reduce to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally and gently. Meanwhile, to the boiling water, add the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the noodles are tender on the exterior but still very firm in the center, 5 to 7 minutes. Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking water, then drain.
Step 5
Uncover the sauce and meatballs and bring to a simmer over medium. Add the pasta, remaining ½ cup Parmesan, remaining 2 tablespoons oil and ¼ cup of the reserved cooking water. Cook, tossing to combine, until the sauce has thickened and the pasta is al dente, 3 to 5 minutes; add reserved pasta water as needed so the sauce clings to the noodles. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with additional Parmesan and parsley and drizzled with additional oil.
