Malaysian Twice-Cooked Turmeric Chicken with Lemon Grass and Sweet Soy

The Malaysian dish called ayam masak kecap translates as “chicken cooked in soy sauce,” but it’s commonly referred to as “bachelor’s chicken” because it’s quick and easy to throw together. It also happens to be irresistibly delicious. Pieces of turmeric-seasoned chicken are fried then set aside. A dark, thick, salty-sweet, umami-rich sauce is made with alliums and other aromatics, then the chicken is briefly cooked in the sauce to fuse all the flavors. Bob Muze, chef at Cili Kampung restaurant in Kuala Lumpur, taught us his version. We adapted his recipe using boneless thighs cut into quick-cooking strips, dredging them in turmeric-spiked cornstarch for crispness and then pan-frying them. Kecap manis has the savory notes of soy sauce but also a molasses-like bittersweetness and a syrupy consistency. If it’s difficult to source, make an approximation by combining ¼ cup each soy sauce, molasses and brown sugar. Serve the chicken with jasmine rice.