Lentil Soup with Lemony Shrimp

At Vittoria Ristorante, a 100-year-old eatery in Marche, Italy, chef Sunni Martelli taught us to make her grandmother’s lentil and shrimp soup. The coastal region is known for its seafood, while lentils are a nod to its neighbor, Umbria. To make the lentils creamy and tender, Martelli cooked them like risotto, adding liquid slowly and in stages. She used the Castelluccio variety, which are grown in the Umbrian village of the same name, but French lentils du Puy also work well. Puy lentils may take a little longer to cook, so be sure to taste them for doneness. Serve the soup with crusty bread.