Japanese Chicken and Scallion Skewers (Negima)

Skewers of chicken thighs and scallions, called negima in Japanese, are a common yakitori. Grilled and swiped at the finish with tare (pronounced tah-reh), an umami-rich soy glaze, the flavors are surprisingly subtle and nuanced. Scallions are a stand-in for Japanese negi, the classic choice of allium for negima; choose bunches with sizable whites. Simmered into the tare, the optional dried shiitake mushrooms bring depth of flavor. We suggest saving them after straining, as they are deeply flavorful. Minced or sliced, the mushrooms are an excellent topping for steamed rice or tofu, or add them to noodle dishes. Extra tare can be refrigerated for a couple of weeks; use it on grilled foods, or add it to the broth for noodle soups or to soy-flavored braises.