Garlic Noodles

Garlic noodles are a perennial favorite at Thanh Long and Crustacean, popular family-owned Vietnamese restaurants in San Francisco and Los Angeles. The recipe is a closely guarded secret, which is why the Internet is awash with attempts to re-create the buttery, umami-rich dish. For ours, we wanted noodles that are assertively, but not aggressively, garlicky, and with a tempered richness so we could eat more than just a few bites. We found Maggi seasoning, a flavor enhancer sold in a distinctive shaker bottle, to be key for savory flavor, while just a little oyster sauce added sweetness and more umami. If you can’t find Maggi seasoning, Bragg’s Liquid Aminos works well, too. The grated Parmesan is optional. If you can find them, use fresh lo mein noodles or other not-too-thin yellow Asian wheat noodles; dried spaghetti or linguine are good stand-ins.