Fresh Egg Pasta with Browned Butter and Hazelnuts

Fresh egg pasta is rich with flavor and boasts a satisfying texture that is sturdy yet tender. Supple and golden-hued, the noodles shine in a simple butter-based sauce. We infuse nutty browned butter with garlic, sage and black pepper, then incorporate Parmesan and starchy pasta cooking water to yield a silky sauce. Toasted hazelnuts add crunch; lemon zest and juice bring bright, fruity accents; and a smattering of chopped chives add color and freshness. Both skinless and skin-on hazelnuts work well. If using the latter, there’s no need to peel them—we found that the skins’ subtle bitterness was balanced nicely by the butter and Parmesan. When making the pasta, you can cut ¼-inch-wide strips for tagliatelle, but for this dish, we prefer ½-inch ribbons. Fresh pasta cooks quickly, so take care to not overdo it; a few minutes should be plenty. If you don’t own a pasta machine but are skilled with a rolling pin, the dough can be rolled into sheets by hand.