Cumin-Spiced Tomato Rice

To make our version of South Indian tomato rice, called thakkali sadam, we use tomato in two forms: paste, which offers concentrated flavor and deep color, plus chopped cherry or grape tomatoes for freshness. The cooking starts with a tarka—that is, blooming the spices and aromatics in hot oil to draw out their essence—before basmati rice goes into the saucepan. We like the subtle fruity, smoky notes that árbol chilies release into the rice, but if you have only red pepper flakes on hand, they will work, but add a more direct, less nuanced spiciness. Be sure to rinse and drain the rice before use. Rinsing removes excess starch for especially light, fluffy grains. Tomato rice pairs well with seafood, poultry or vegetable-centric mains, or it can be eaten as a light meal with a dollop of yogurt or topped with a fried egg.