Crisp-Skinned Chicken Thighs with 1-1-1 Sauce
- Makes4 servings
- Cook Time1 hour
In Japan, we learned a 1-1-1 formula for making tare (pronounced tah-reh), the salty-sweet soy-centric sauce used to season dishes of all sorts, from grilled foods to soup broths. With a base of equal parts shoyu (soy sauce), sake and mirin, ingredients such as garlic and ginger can be added to supply depth and complexity. We also toss in a few dried shiitakes to boost the umami factor. (We suggest saving the mushrooms after straining. Minced or sliced, they are a deeply flavorful topping for steamed rice or tofu, or add them to noodle dishes.) We use the tare on skin-on, boneless chicken thighs that are broiled in the lower part of the oven. The skin renders, browns and turns crackling crisp. If you cannot find boneless, skin-on thighs, purchase bone-in thighs and remove the bones yourself. With the tip of a sharp paring knife, cut the meat away from either side of the bone using a scraping action, then slide the blade under the bone and cut it free. There will be a piece of cartilage attached to an edge of the meat that also will need to be trimmed. Yuzu kosho, a condiment made of green chilies, yuzu (a type of citrus) and salt, is punchy, pungent accent to the chicken. Only a tiny amount is needed to supply big flavor. If you wish to try yuzu kosho but cannot find it, make our ersatz version with pickled jalapeños and lemon zest (recipe follows).
Don’t over-reduce the tare. It should be simmered until only slightly thickened, not syrupy and glaze-like.
Step 1
In a small saucepan, combine the sake, soy sauce, mirin, sugar, ginger, garlic and shiitake mushrooms (if using). Simmer over medium, then reduce to medium-low and cook until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Strain through a mesh sieve into a measuring cup or small bowl, pressing the solids; you should have ½ to ⅔ cup tare. Discard the solids or reserve for another use.
Step 2
Season the chicken on both sides with 1¼ teaspoons each salt and white pepper. Pour ¼ cup of the tare into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish or other wide, shallow container then place the chicken skin side up in a single layer in the tare, allowing the meat to marinate without moistening the skin. Let stand at room temperature at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.
Step 3
Heat the broiler on high with the rack in the lower-middle position. Set a wire rack in a broiler-safe rimmed baking sheet. Remove the chicken from the tare and place the pieces skin side up on the rack. Pat the skin dry without wiping off the seasoning; discard any tare remaining in the baking dish. Broil the chicken until the skin is rendered and golden brown, 15 to 17 minutes.
Step 4
Remove from the oven. Lightly brush the chicken with some of the remaining tare, then continue to broil until the skin is crisped and caramelized, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for a few minutes.
Step 5
Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Using a chef’s knife, cut each thigh crosswise into 3 or 4 pieces. Transfer to a platter and drizzle with additional tare. (Store extra tare in an airtight container in the refrigerator for a few weeks.)
Step 6
Faux Yuzu Kosho: In a mortar with a pestle, grind 2 tablespoons chopped drained pickled jalapeño chilies (patted dry), 2 tablespoons chopped lemon zest (from about large 4 strips) and 1 teaspoon kosher salt until smooth. Use right away or refrigerate in an airtight container up to 1 week.