Chicken Pho
The elusive homemade pho elicits lots of questions from our non-culinary friends. The answer: build the broth from scratch.
- Makes4 servings
- Cook Time1 hour 40 minutes
- Active time plus cooling40 minutes active
- 3
Vietnamese chicken pho, or phở gà, is a lighter noodle soup than the better-known beef pho (phở bò); it also is simpler to prepare. The key to the best flavor is the broth, of course, so we take the time to make it from scratch. For ease and convenience, we forgo a clear soup and simply simmer chicken drumsticks until they give up most, but not all, of their flavor to the broth; after cooking, the meat is shredded, then added to individual bowls. Onion and fresh ginger are roasted in the oven to bring out their natural sweetness, and whole spices are toasted to enhance their flavor and aroma. These ingredients are simmered into the broth to lend the aroma and complexity characteristic of phở. As for the noodles, use dried rice sticks that are about ¼ inch wide; they’re sold in flattish packages of folded noodle skeins. Northern-style pho typically is eaten plain, without garnishes. But feel free to serve the pho southern style, with fresh Thai basil, bean sprouts and sliced jalapeño along with bottles of Sriracha and hoisin.
Don’t worry if the spices are smoking lightly when you remove them from the oven. Toasting maximizes their aroma and deepens their flavor. Also, don’t let the broth cook at a boil. It should be actively simmering, not bubbling furiously, which may result in bitter notes from over-extraction and a scant volume.
Step 1
Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the middle position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Peel and thinly slice 1 onion half crosswise. Submerge the sliced onion in a small bowl of cold water, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Step 2
Place the remaining unpeeled onion halves and ginger, cut sides down, on the prepared baking sheet. Place the coriander seeds, peppercorns and star anise on a small piece of foil. Fold the foil up over the spices to enclose them, then place on the baking sheet. Roast for 10 minutes, then remove the spice packet (it’s fine if the spices are lightly smoking) and set aside. Continue to roast the onions and ginger until the cut side of the onion halves are deeply browned and the ginger is slightly shriveled, about another 20 minutes. Cool slightly, then peel the onions and roughly chop the ginger (no need to peel).
Step 3
In a large pot over medium-high, combine the chicken, cilantro stems, fish sauce, sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, the roasted onion and ginger, the spices (removed from the foil packet) and 2½ quarts water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to medium and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour. Using tongs, transfer the drumsticks to a large plate and set aside to cool.
Step 4
Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large saucepan; press on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids. Rinse out the pot, then fill with water and bring to a boil. Place the saucepan with the broth over low and cover to keep warm. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, shred the meat into bite-size pieces, discarding the skin and bones.
Step 5
When the water is boiling, add the noodles and cook, stirring occasionally until just shy of tender. Drain in a colander, shaking the colander to remove as much water as possible. Divide the noodles evenly among 4 serving bowls.
Step 6
Drain the sliced onion and divide among the bowls, followed by the shredded chicken. Bring the broth to a boil over medium-high, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the broth into the bowls, then top with the cilantro leaves and additional pepper. Serve with lime wedges.