Soup from Nothing (Caraway Soup with Parsley and Walnut Pesto)
- Makes4-6 servings
- Cook Time1 hour
- Active time plus cooling35 minutes active
At Milk Street, this simple, comforting broth is affectionately known as “soup from nothing.” It is our adaptation of a recipe we learned from Oana Udrea, chef at Meșendorf 65 in the Transylvania region of Romania. The heart of the soup is a light but fragrant broth made by infusing toasted caraway seeds into water; onion, garlic and paprika supply foundational flavor, and a small measure of flour provides thickening. Our pesto accompaniment is an easy version of Udrea’s smoked walnut and radish green condiment that, spooned onto the broth, brought bold, spiky flavor. She also offered savory homemade cookie-like spiced cheese biscuits alongside the soup.
Don’t use caraway that has been languishing in the pantry for months. For the soup to have depth of flavor and aroma, the seeds must be fresh.
Step 1
In a medium saucepan over medium-high, toast the caraway seeds, stirring often, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2 quarts water and bring to a simmer, then reduce to low, cover partially and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
Step 2
In a large saucepan over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the flour and paprika; cook, stirring often, until a film forms on the bottom of the pan, 2 to 4 minutes.
Step 3
Set a fine-mesh strainer across the saucepan with the onion. Ladle or pour half of the caraway broth into the strainer. Remove the strainer, then whisk the broth-onion mixture to smooth any lumps, scraping along the bottom of the pan. Repeat with the remaining broth; discard the seeds in the strainer.
Step 4
Add ¾ teaspoon salt to the soup, then bring to a simmer, whisking occasionally. Reduce to medium-low and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until lightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and finish each portion with a spoonful of the pesto.
Step 5
Parsley and Walnut Pesto: In a food processor, combine ½ cup walnuts, ¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese and 1 medium garlic clove (smashed and peeled). Process until finely ground and beginning to clump, 30 to 45 seconds. Add 2 cups lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley (roughly chopped), ¼ teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon ground black pepper. Process until finely chopped, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar.
