Cantonese Sweet-and-Sour Pork

In Hong Kong, we sought out true Cantonese sweet-and-sour pork, predecessor of the gloppy, overly sweet versions served in many Chinese American restaurants. After sampling dozens of versions, we created our recipe by combining the attributes of the best ones we tried. Though the pork typically is deep-fried, we keep ours lighter by pan-frying it in just ¼ cup of oil to crisp a thin cornstarch coating. Traditional versions are flavored with hawthorn berries, a crabapple-like fruit. To approximate the flavor of hawthorn berries, we use apple jelly—it provides fruitiness, sweetness and a little body to the glaze-like sauce. Finally, a little MSG amplifies the savoriness, but it’s optional. A 12- to 14-inch wok is the best pan to use, but a 12-inch skillet works, too. If using a skillet, cook the pork in a single batch instead of two.