Cantonese Barbecued Pork (Char Siu)
- MakesMakes about 2 pounds
- Cook Time1½ hours
- Active time plus cooling1 hour active, plus refrigeration and grill prep
- 3
In Hong Kong, our favorite iterations of char siu, or savory-sweet Cantonese barbecued pork, were from Sun Kwai Heung BBQ Food and Hoi Kee Roast Meat. To make char siu, fat-rich pork is cut into long strips, seasoned sometimes with a rub but more commonly with a marinade, then hung on hooks and cooked over a live fire. In the final stages, a maltose glaze is applied that creates a lacquered sheen and helps develop deliciously charred edges. For our version, we make a wet rub and apply it to strips of pork shoulder. Without an apparatus to hang the meat, we use indirect (or low) heat to cook it on an outdoor grill, then brush the strips with a honey-based glaze and char them directly over the fire. (We also offer oven instructions; see below). Char siu is sliced for serving. It can be paired simply with rice and a steamed vegetable such as Chinese broccoli or bok choy. It’s commonly used in fried rice and stir-fried noodles and is a fine garnish for noodle soups. It’s also a fantastic filling for Vietnamese-style bánh mì sandwiches. If possible, store leftovers as whole strips, rather than slices. They will keep in the refrigerator up to five days; reheat on the middle rack under the broiler for five minutes, flipping once halfway.
Don’t use an assertive honey that would compete with the other flavors. Clover honey is a good, neutral choice. Orange blossom honey, with its citrusy notes, works nicely, too. For the best texture, don’t undercook the pork. Make sure the pieces reach 160°F to 165°F on the cool side of the grill before glazing then caramelizing over the hot side of the fire.
Step 1
In a small bowl, combine the sugar, soy sauce, five-spice, garlic, ginger, 2 teaspoons salt if using Morton or 4 teaspoons if using Diamond Crystal and 1 teaspoon pepper. Mix with your fingers until evenly moistened and uniform. Coat the pork on all sides with the mix, rubbing it in. Place in a large container, cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours.
Step 2
About 1 hour before grilling, let the pork stand at room temperature. Meanwhile, make the glaze. In a small saucepan, combine the honey, Shaoxing, ¼ teaspoon black pepper and 3 tablespoons water. Simmer over medium and cook, stirring, until lightly syrupy, about 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in the sesame oil, cover and set aside.
Step 3
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney three-fourths full of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute the coals evenly over one side of the grill bed and open the bottom grill vents. Heat the grill, covered, for 5 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate. For a gas grill, turn all burners to high and heat, covered, for 15 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate; leave the primary burner on high and turn the remaining burner(s) to low.
Step 4
Place the pork, evenly spaced, on the cooler side of the grill. Cover and cook, using tongs to turn and reposition the pieces every 5 to 7 minutes, until the thickest piece reaches 160°F to 165°F, 15 to 20 minutes.
Step 5
Lightly brush the pork all over with some of the glaze, then place on the hot side of the grill. Cook, uncovered, turning and brushing the pieces with glaze every 2 minutes, until deeply browned and with charred bits at the edges, 5 to 10 minutes. As they are done, transfer the pieces to a large plate. Let rest for 15 minutes. To serve, transfer to a cutting board and cut crosswise into slices about ¼ inch thick.
Step 6
Oven directions: Follow the recipe to season and refrigerate the pork and make the glaze. When ready to cook, heat the oven to 500°F with a rack in the lower-middle position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, then place a wire rack on top. Evenly space the pork on the rack. Roast until the thickest piece reaches 160°F to 165°F, about 20 minutes, flipping the pieces halfway. Lightly brush the pork all over with some of the glaze, then continue to roast, turning and brushing the pieces every 3 minutes, until deeply browned and with charred bits at the edges, about 15 minutes. As they are done, transfer the pieces to a large plate. Let rest for 15 minutes. To serve, transfer to a cutting board and cut crosswise into slices about ¼ inch thick.
