Cantonese Barbecued Pork (Char Siu)

In Hong Kong, our favorite iterations of char siu, or savory-sweet Cantonese barbecued pork, were from Sun Kwai Heung BBQ Food and Hoi Kee Roast Meat. To make char siu, fat-rich pork is cut into long strips, seasoned sometimes with a rub but more commonly with a marinade, then hung on hooks and cooked over a live fire. In the final stages, a maltose glaze is applied that creates a lacquered sheen and helps develop deliciously charred edges. For our version, we make a wet rub and apply it to strips of pork shoulder. Without an apparatus to hang the meat, we use indirect (or low) heat to cook it on an outdoor grill, then brush the strips with a honey-based glaze and char them directly over the fire. (We also offer oven instructions; see below). Char siu is sliced for serving. It can be paired simply with rice and a steamed vegetable such as Chinese broccoli or bok choy. It’s commonly used in fried rice and stir-fried noodles and is a fine garnish for noodle soups. It’s also a fantastic filling for Vietnamese-style bánh mì sandwiches. If possible, store leftovers as whole strips, rather than slices. They will keep in the refrigerator up to five days; reheat on the middle rack under the broiler for five minutes, flipping once halfway.