Balsamic-Roasted Beets with Hazelnuts and Chives

A dose of vinegar and honey added to beets as they roast results in a well-rounded, sweet-sour flavor, without the aggressive acidity of pickled beets. Whole beets take a good, long while to become tender, giving the vinegar—we use balsamic—a chance to lose some of its sharpness (acetic acid is volatile and evaporates, albeit at a slower rate than water). The liquid in the baking dish becomes a dressing for the beets after they’re peeled and chunked. We finish them simply with olive oil, toasted nuts and chives. Use red or golden beets, or a combination. For convenience, the beets can be roasted, peeled, cut, dressed with their juices and refrigerated for up to two days. To serve, bring to room temperature, then garnish.