Babylonian Lamb or Beef and Turnip Stew
- Makes4-6 servings
- Cook Time3¾ hours
- Active time plus cooling1 hour active
- 2
The starting point for this dish comes from the translation of a recipe from the Yale Babylonian culinary tablets. To create a fragrant, full-flavored stew, we approximated and adjusted ingredients, and we turned to the oven for steady, constant simmering. Lamb is the traditional meat, and we opted to use lamb shanks, as the marrow gives the braising liquid body and richness; we shred the meat after cooking and discard the bones. We found the stew was just as delicious made with bone-in beef shanks (1 to 1½ inches thick). The culinary tablets reveal that beer was used as a cooking liquid in Mesopotamia, so we developed this dish with a wheat beer for notes of sweetness and fermentation; a lager works, too. Steamed bulgur (recipe follows) is an ideal accompaniment.
Don’t forget to rinse and dry the leeks. Leeks’ many layers trap dirt and sand. To prevent grit from winding up in the stew, be sure to wash and drain them after slicing, then dry them to remove excess moisture that would otherwise impede browning.
Step 1
Heat the oven to 325°F with a rack in the middle position. Season the shanks evenly with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat the ghee until barely smoking. Add the onions, leeks and cilantro stems.
Reduce to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic, coriander and cumin, then cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Step 2
Add the beer, scraping up any browned bits. Simmer, stirring, until most of the liquid has evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the broth and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper, then return to a simmer.
Add the meat in an even layer. Return to a simmer, then cover the pot, place in the oven and cook for 2 hours.
Step 3
Uncover and return to the oven to cook until a skewer inserted into the shanks meets no resistance, another 1 to 1½ hours. Using tongs, transfer the shanks to a plate and set aside.
Off heat, tilt the pot to pool the cooking liquid to one side, then use a wide spoon to skim off and discard as much fat as possible.
Step 4
Add the turnips to the pot and bring to a simmer over medium. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until a skewer inserted into the turnips meets no resistance, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, using 2 forks, shred the meat into bite-size pieces, discarding the gristle and bones. When the turnips are tender, add the shredded meat to the pot and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until just heated through, about 5 minutes.
Step 5
Off heat, stir in the cilantro leaves and arugula. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve the stew sprinkled with chives (if using) and lemon wedges on the side.
