“Addictive” Cucumber Salad (Yamitsuki Kyuri)

We bash and smash cucumbers to get craggy, uneven pieces that easily trap flavorings. And to match the satisfying cucumber crunch, we use garlic, sesame and a hit of umami in the dressing, creating a side that is irresistible. This type of salad is a staple at izakayas, the Japanese pubs known for their small plates. Our recipe hews closely to that of Yoko Inagaki, the Osaka cooking instructor who showed us how to make yamitsuki. Chicken bouillon powder or MSG is the secret ingredient here, but you can skip those in favor of more salt or a dash of soy sauce.