Turkish-Inspired Beef Wraps with Tomato-Onion Salad
Could a Better Burger Really Be About the Salad?
The pairing of rich meats with bright salads is a balancing act found in cuisines around the world, particularly with street foods. Mexican steak tacos often are accented by zesty pico de gallo. Nigerian suya beef skewers come with a tangy chopped salad. Even the all-American hamburger seems naked without lettuce, tomato, onion and pickles.
And in Türkiye, there are tantuni—juicy, well-seasoned wraps of seared chopped meats (usually beef or lamb) and sometimes peppers, all rolled in lavash and accompanied by a bright tomato-onion salad laced with zingy sumac. The result is almost burger-esque, a combination of rich meatiness, sweet-and-tangy freshness and tender, lightly charred bread.
Our version focuses on ingredients most home cooks in the U.S. are likely to have on hand. We start with ground beef, which we sauté with bell peppers, adding a little cumin for earthy depth. And we pair it with a salad of tomatoes, onion and jalapeño, which we spike with a bit of lemon juice as a stand-in for the bracing tartness of sumac; a finishing sprinkle of herbs lends an extra burst of freshness. And we replace the lavash with easier-to-source tortillas, which we toast until pliable. To finish, simply fill, fold and enjoy.
Shaula Clark
Shaula Clark is a Boston-based writer and editor. Her six-year stint as managing editor of Milk Street’s magazine absolutely leveled up her cooking game—though her trusty canine sous chef, Roxie the Schipperke, remains unimpressed unless cheese is involved. In the kitchen, she likes to get weird, with experiments yielding both great success (absinthe sorbet) and dismal failure (liquid smoke-infused rice paper “bacon”). Thanks to a terrifyingly productive tomato garden, Milk Street’s salmorejo—a luscious Andalusian tomato soup—has become a particular favorite recipe. She is, for the record, also staunchly pro-ketchup. Disagreements over her stance on condiments may be sent to .





