Tomato Paste

Flavor-packed tomato paste adds savory-sweet depth to dishes, and we often enhance this by browning it to caramelize its natural sugars. We use it often—especially in sauces, soups and stews—so we wanted to know which brands offer the best balance of savory, sweet and tangy flavors.

We tested 12 varieties, a mix of budget-friendly and boutique brands of both single- and double-strength varieties. We assumed we would prefer double-­strength for their intensity. But we often found them overwhelmingly rich, even harsh.

To our surprise, three standard-strength supermarket brands stood out. Tuttorosso offered balanced umami and sweetness, with a deep, roasted flavor and thick consistency. Hunt’s had a pleasant sweetness and well-balanced savory notes. And Contadina impressed us with its bold tomato flavor and punchy acidity, providing a fresher taste. Premium double-­strength brand Maria Grammatico also scored well, thanks to its savory intensity and big tomato flavor. (Note that with double-strength, you may need to use less than the recipe calls for.)

Two brands—both single-­strength—trailed far behind: Goya was overwhelmingly acidic, while premium brand Bionaturae was offputtingly thin and bitter.

Our takeaway? Higher-end pastes aren’t necessarily better.

To transform tomato paste into a rich sauce, try this simple Turkish-inspired sauce—it’s great over pasta, hearty grains and grilled meats. In a skillet over medium, melt 4 tablespoons salted butter. Add 1 teaspoon cumin seeds and stir until sizzling. Add a 6-ounce can tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper; cook, stirring, until the paste browns and slightly sticks to the pan. Add 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper, 2 finely grated garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon dried mint or dried oregano; cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add 1 cup water and bring to a simmer over medium-high, scraping up any browned bits. Reduce to medium-­low and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Off heat, season to taste.