Deconstructed fried rice with slippery eggs. That’s how Wing Chen described the signature dish of Shun Hing Restaurant, the tiny Hong Kong shop he runs with his brother, catering mostly to the university students and mechanics from the area.

While accurate and not unappealing, his description doesn’t quite do this dish justice. Each plate a mound of steaming, fluffy white rice topped with eggs so lightly cooked they drench the grains with golden yolk. Rich sauce and savory protein all in one ingredient. Embedded in the egg, your choice of protein—shrimp, beef, barbecued pork, Chinese sausage or, for anyone truly famished, an all-of-the-above combination. Over it all—a flurry of scallions, a glug of soy sauce and as much chili sauce as you can handle.

“It wasn’t designed. It just happened,” said Chen’s brother, Chan Chi Kwong. He runs the coffee station—as important to their clientele as the food—while Chen handles the cooking. When they took over the restaurant from their father 15 years ago, the brothers wanted something they could cook quickly for the time-pressed students and workers who crowd their “dining room”—half of it in a proper building, the other half in an alley of folding tables and plastic chairs across the street.

Rice topped with fried egg and barbecued pork is a Hong Kong classic known as char siu rice. But to hasten an already speedy dish, the brothers tried undercooking the eggs. It was an instant hit. Today, they start prep at 4 a.m. for a lunch crowd onslaught, serving up to 400 plates of slippery eggs and fluffy rice every day from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Call them slippery. Call them speedy. Call them deconstructed “fried” rice. Call them whatever you like. Chen and Kwong served me easily the best thing I ate in Hong Kong, a rice dish that was almost impossibly creamy and savory. To reduce it to its most basic, I’ll say this: These are the scrambled eggs of your dreams.