The name, Sugar Steak, is compelling but the real question is why? (In addition to the Talisman of Happiness cookbook (now back in print), the origin story also includes Bastien’s steakhouse in Denver going back almost 100 years.) Steak at temperatures over 350°F produces the Maillard reaction but sugar yields caramelization, something totally different. Getting the best of both worlds—a pan sauce with tons of flavor is what this recipe is all about.

First off, this sauce does not taste sweet per se—just like a caramel sauce, as the sugar cooks, it darkens in color and flavor with an almost bitter foundation. We started by coating the steak with brown sugar and salt while we heated the pan and then cooked the steaks 3 to 4 minutes per side. (You can reverse-sear the steak by starting it in a 275°F oven until it comes up to 95°F—then finish cooking in the oven.)

The steaks come out, excess fat is removed from the pan, and then we make the sauce using brown sugar, soy sauce and rosemary. (Worcestershire sauce was overpowering.) Cook until the sauce turns mahogany and then add a half cup of water. After a couple of minutes, whisk in butter until it emulsifies. Off heat, finish up with a splash of vinegar to balance the butter and caramel. The result is the world’s best steak sauce.

Dark cast iron is not ideal for this recipe because it makes it hard to see when the sugar has caramelized properly—it’s easy to burn the sauce. Also, top sirloin or strip steaks work best here—rib eye is too fatty and dulls the flavor.

Who says that history has nothing to teach us?

Chris Kimball

Christopher Kimball is founder of Milk Street, which produces Milk Street Magazine, Milk Street Television on PBS, and the weekly public radio show Milk Street Radio. He founded Cook’s Magazine in 1980 and was host and executive producer of America’s Test Kitchen until 2016. Kimball is the author of several books, including "The Yellow Farmhouse" and "Fannie’s Last Supper."