Sherry vinegar—Spain’s answer to balsamic—adds a dash of complex, rich acidity to just about anything. And it’s a powerhouse pantry staple in our kitchen; we use it to sharpen flavors in many of our sauces, soups and dressings. But with so many sherry vinegar options out there, how do you choose? We tested some of the most popular brands—from budget-friendly grocery store offerings to high-end options—in order to crown a favorite.

But that requires a solid understanding of what exactly sherry vinegar is, and what makes it so special.

Produced exclusively in Spain’s the Jerez de la Frontera region, sherry vinegar is made with (yes) sherry wine, resulting in a flavor profile more savory and sharply acidic than that of balsamic. Over time, the wine oxidizes and transforms into vinegar, as its ethanol is converted into acetic acid. It’s aged in wooden casks via the solera system, a traditional process that blends older and younger vinegars. This creates balanced acidity (typically between 7 and 8%) and promotes the development of over 80 distinct flavor compounds, including esters, aldehydes and phenols, all of which contribute to its rich, nuanced flavor profile featuring notes of nuts, caramel and dried fruits.

(Sherry vinegar should not be confused with sherry cooking wine, which is fortified and often contains added salt and preservatives.)

With numerous brands of sherry vinegar out there, it can feel daunting to find the right one. Some pointers: First off, just as with balsamic, all authentic sherry vinegars bear a Protected Designation of Origin (D.O.P.) emblem on the label. But it’s not the only factor in mind when considering a sherry vinegar’s quality. Age also plays a big role in flavor. All sherry vinegars are aged for a minimum of 6 months. Young sherry vinegars will be simply labeled “vinagre de Jerez,” while longer-aged vinegars are designated as Reserva (aged at least 2 years) or Gran Reserva (aged at least 10 years). Additionally, the types of grapes influence the vinegar's characteristics. Palomino grapes—the type most commonly used for sherry vinegar—produce dry vinegars with sharp acidity, Pedro Ximénez offers dark, intense vinegars with a balance of sweetness and acidity, while Moscatel results in sweet, fruity vinegars. Further, sherry vinegars can be distinguished by the type of sherry wine used to make them: fino (light and dry), amontillado (nutty and medium-bodied) and oloroso (dark and intense).

It’s worth noting that sherry vinegars can offer a lot of bang for your buck—and top-tier sherry vinegars are far more wallet-friendly than high-end balsamics. For example, a Gran Reserva typically maxes out at $30 for a 375ml to 750ml bottle, while a similarly aged traditional balsamic vinegar (such as Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale) ranges from $75 to over $200 for a 100ml bottle. So it’s easier to splurge on a really good sherry vinegar. But should you?

We got to work finding out.

We evaluated 10 sherry vinegars in a blind taste test, with a selection that included Reservas and Gran Reservas. We focused exclusively on vinegars made with Palomino grapes (as Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel vinegars are far less common). We first tasted them in raw applications—both straight-up and in a vinaigrette. Next, we took the winners from this round and compared them in a cooked sauce for pork tenderloin.

Four vinegars emerged as our top picks. In general, we found the younger vinegars to be sharper and less complex in flavor than the Reservas and Gran Reservas. Of the younger vinegars, Columela Clasico won for its balanced acidity and richness, its rich intensity of flavor and deep color, with Don Bruno taking a close second. Among the longer-aged sherry vinegars, we especially liked Cepa Vieja for its smooth, round flavor, mild acidity and rich, balanced sweetness with notes of raisins and a floral finish. A higher-end Columela offering, Columela 50, also performed well. When cooked, however, the differences between the younger vinegars and the longer-aged vinegars were barely discernible.

Ultimately, the best choice for vinegar depends on what you plan to do with it. For example, if you plan to use it for vinaigrettes, you might want to opt for those higher-priced aged sherry vinegars. However, if you primarily plan to use it in cooking, such as in marinades or sauces, a good-quality budget pick might be a better bet, since the vinegar’s sharpness mellows when cooked and its subtler flavors become less discernable. But whatever style of sherry vinegar you choose, look for one with a lower acidity level. Across our testing, we preferred sherries with a 7% acidity over higher-acidity vinegars. An interesting exception was O California vinegar. This non-DOP vinegar has only 6% acidity and is sweetened by apricot juice—for extra fruitiness that we found offputting.