Panko

Crispy-coarse Japanese panko is our go-to breadcrumb because it offers more flavor and texture than fine breadcrumbs, which can taste dusty and dry. Surprisingly, though, much of what’s marketed as panko in grocery stores is not genuine.

True panko is made from soft milk bread, heated using electric currents to create large, airy flakes. In contrast, many supermarket panko-style breadcrumbs are just coarser versions of traditional breadcrumbs. They tend to produce soggy coatings that don’t adhere well.

We tested several brands and found striking differences. True panko boasts a light, feathery texture and superior crispness, while imitations are denser and more uniform. Our favorite was Shirakiku for its exceptional texture and flavor.

But identifying authentic panko can be tricky. Most panko from Japan is genuine, but some U.S. brands are authentic, too. Look for large, irregular, wispy flakes; imitation panko is often granular and uniform in size.

Besides coating chicken and fish, we love sprinkling toasted panko over pasta dishes for extra crunch. For the best results, first toast the panko: Using 1 tablespoon olive oil for every ¼ cup panko, toast in a large skillet over medium heat until golden brown, about 5 minutes.

And when we use it to coat chicken, we often flavor it. To make chili-spiced panko for use on skillet-fried chicken cutlets, in a medium bowl, beat 2 large eggs with 1 teaspoon kosher salt. In a second bowl, mix ½ cup all-purpose flour and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. In a third bowl, mix 2 cups panko, 2 tablespoons chili powder and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. One at a time, coat six 4-ounce chicken cutlets (about ¼ inch thick) on both sides with the flour, then the eggs, then the panko, pressing to adhere. In a large nonstick skillet, heat ¼ cup neutral oil until shimmering. Add 3 cutlets and brown for 2 to 3 minutes per side, then transfer to a wire rack. Add another 2 to 3 tablespoons neutral oil and repeat with the remaining cutlets.