Off the Air
Bye-Bye Browning
Multiple listeners asked for the best way to prevent apples from browning when prepping the fruit in advance or when baking pies in bulk.
To determine the best way to prevent apples from browning, we soaked peeled and sliced apples in three different solutions: salt water (brining); acidulated water (lemon juice); and ascorbic acid water (a natural form of vitamin C used in canning and preserving). After two days in the refrigerator, we evaluated the apples both raw and baked into pies. Salt water kept the raw apples looking freshly cut and crisp. But in the oven, the slices collapsed into applesauce. Turns out, salt weakens pectin, the structural glue in fruit. Acidulated water yielded apples that held their shape better when baked, but it didn’t do much to prevent browning. Even after just one day, the slices were noticeably darker, both raw and when baked. Ascorbic acid was the clear winner. The slices stayed pale and fresh-looking, and baked up with the ideal texture and flavor—no collapsing, no discoloration. You can find ascorbic acid online or in the canning aisle of many grocery stores. It works by neutralizing the enzyme that causes browning, making it a smart addition to any holiday pie prep.
What’s the Deal with All the Different Types of Cinnamon?
Gone are the days when generic “cinnamon” was the only choice at the supermarket. One caller asked for help making sense of the many varieties he now must choose from—Chinese, Vietnamese, Ceylon and Indonesian.
We admit, it can be overwhelming. So we sampled each variety raw and baked into cinnamon rolls to determine what, if any, differences mattered in our cooking. Vietnamese cinnamon (cinnamomum loureiroi) was complex, spicy and floral, earning the most praise in both tests. With bold flavor, layered aroma and enough heat to hold its own in baked goods, it was our top choice for an all-purpose cinnamon. Chinese cinnamon (cinnamomum cassia) was the spiciest, with a numbing heat that softened a bit when baked. Its punchy aroma and flavor make it better suited for savory dishes or spice blends, such as five-spice powder, rather than sweets where subtlety matters. Ceylon cinnamon (cinnamomum verum) was the most delicate and least aromatic, but tasters loved its sweet, woodsy flavor in cinnamon rolls. It’s a great option when you want warmth without overwhelming spice. Finally, Indonesian Korintje cinnamon (cinnamomum burmannii)—the familiar grocery-
store staple—offered balanced spice and aroma that many tasters found comforting, though it lacked the punch or complexity of the others. The bottom line? If you want a single, go-to cinnamon for everything from cookies to curries, Vietnamese cinnamon is your best bet. For delicate baked goods, try Ceylon. For bold, spicy stews or blends, reach for Chinese. And if you’re after the nostalgic flavor of classic American baking, Indonesian Korintje delivers that familiar cinnamon warmth.
Laser Focused?
A listener wondered whether infrared thermometers—sometimes called laser thermometers—are a worthwhile purchase for the average home cook.
To find out, we pitted infrared and conventional instant-read probe thermometers against one another in a variety of kitchen tasks. Infrared thermometers measure only surface temperatures, and they struggle to read shiny and transparent surfaces. And our testing proved this to be true. When heating sugar for peanut brittle, the glossy, reflective syrup threw off the infrared readings by as much as 20 degrees compared to the fast, accurate probe thermometer. Once we added baking soda and the mixture turned opaque and foamy, the infrared reading was only four degrees off. We had similar results when checking the temperature of oil for frying and chocolate for tempering. The glossy surfaces led to unreliable readings, missing the mark by about 15 degrees. Next, we seared steaks, temping them with both models simultaneously. The infrared thermometer was only capable of telling us the surface temperature—158°F—not the internal temperature, making it impossible to know when we’d hit the ideal 130°F for medium-rare. That said, the infrared model was handy for gauging pan heat, indicating when our cast-iron skillet hit 500°F, the sweet spot for a great sear. Since most probe thermometers can’t measure surface temperature, this turned out to be the infrared thermometer’s best use. Ultimately, an infrared thermometer isn’t a replacement for a probe thermometer, but it can be a useful tool for certain jobs, such as checking the temperature of pans, griddles or pizza stones.
