Skip to main content

Lazio’s Easiest, No-Cook Pasta Sauce

In a hillside village north of Rome, we learned the delicious simplicity of herbs and garlic

As Alfonsina Cortegiani dragged her raschietta across the wooden table, she pulled together flour and eggs in a delicious alchemy she’s been working for nearly 65 years, ever since she was 6 years old. The raschietta—a rustic spade-like bench scraper forged from wrought iron—has been at it far longer.

The tool, smooth and comfortably heavy, was made by a distant relative sometime in the mid-1800s and has been used for pasta making by the women of Cortegiani’s family ever since. I don’t think I’ve ever coveted a kitchen tool quite so much as that raschietta. Its heft and ease in the hand spoke volumes of its history. As did its simple, beautiful utility.

I was visiting Cortegiani at the farm-guesthouse she and her husband run in Mompeo, a hillside town 45 kilometers northeast of Rome. Population: 500, give or take. As logs crackled in the fireplace behind her, she walked me through innumerable hand-shaped pastas and the sauces they love.

“I didn’t want to study,” she said, chuckling. “So I gave up school when I was 12 years old and started working in the fields and cooking. None of the pastas was difficult to learn, so I make them all.”

Splendidly so. By far my favorite was the simplest—maccheroni a fezze con aglio e maggiorana—or simply, macaroni with garlic and marjoram. It’s one of those beautiful, too-easy-to-be-so-good sauces Italians toss together seemingly without thought, as though the recipe is baked into their DNA and they have no choice but to make it.

The pasta making was a showstopper, a process inspired by and named for the looping of wool to make yarn. Formed into a thin doughnut, the loop of dough was rolled and stretched, folded over itself, then rolled, stretched and folded over again on repeat until it formed a tangle of long, thick noodles. It reminded me of Chinese pulled noodles.

Cortegiani’s assurances aside, I was pretty sure I couldn’t manipulate pasta dough nearly as dexterously as she did. But the sauce? A no-cook wonder anyone could master. She started by mashing a head of garlic with a heap of fresh marjoram and coarse salt. Olive oil from their 1,200 trees went in next, plus a generous sprinkle of red pepper flakes and black pepper.

When the pasta was cooked, it and some of its water were married to the sauce off heat. A generous amount of briny pecorino Romano cheese melted into it all, thickening it. The taste far exceeded its six-ingredient simplicity, at once herbal, garlicky and cheesy with mild pops of heat. You don’t need a nearly 180-year-old bench scraper to make it, but it certainly would enhance the experience.

J.M. Hirsch