Kitchen Insider
Great Grated Nutmeg
Getting the most flavor from spices typically means grinding or grating them fresh. But is it necessary with nutmeg—which is potent in any form—or is pre-ground good enough? To find out, we tested freshly grated nutmeg (from McCormick Organic Whole Nutmeg) against 365 Whole Foods Ground Nutmeg. We used both in banana bread, a fruity punch and sprinkled over fresh mango. The results weren’t even close. Tasters preferred freshly grated nutmeg in all uses, praising its vivid flavor and aroma; they called the pre-ground “flat” and “faint.” We also tested three tools for grating nutmeg: a wand grater, a box grater and a classic nutmeg rasp. The wand grater was fastest and easiest to use but all three worked well. Another bonus: Whole nutmeg pods last much longer than pre-ground. While ground nutmeg faded within months of opening, even a year-old pod performed well.
Is it Worth it? Cake Strips
Cake strips are bands that wrap around the outside of cake pans to insulate them during baking. They are supposed to prevent domed tops, cracked surfaces and over browned edges. They’re particularly useful for sponge and butter cakes that are meant to be stacked, frosted or used in layered desserts. We tested three brands—two fabric strips that require soaking (Regency and Wilton) and one silicone (Rose’s Heavenly Cake Strip)—alongside a control cake baked with no strip. The silicone strip performed worst. The cake emerged with a cracked, domed top and dark, slightly pulled-in sides—nearly identical to the cake baked without any strips. The Wilton strip flattened the dome and eliminated cracks, but overcorrected, yielding an underbaked center and pale, soft sides. The Regency strip delivered an evenly colored, level cake without introducing new problems. So if you struggle to bake the perfect cake, Regency strips might give you the edge you need.
Make the Most of Makrut Lime
Makrut lime leaves add a bright, floral, citrusy note to Southeast Asian dishes, but not all forms deliver the same flavor. We tested four versions—fresh, frozen, dried and powdered—in two classic recipes, tom yum soup and stir-fried pork with green beans, to see which performed best. Fresh and frozen leaves were nearly indistinguishable in aroma and flavor. Both worked beautifully, though they can be harder to find. A trip to an Asian market is your best bet. And fresh, obviously, are perishable. Dried whole leaves were a pleasant surprise. Though less potent, especially in the stir-fry, they still provided a noticeable fragrance. Some tasters even preferred the gentler flavor they gave to the soup over the sharper fresh or frozen options. While still not easily found at most supermarkets, they store well at room temperature, so are easily kept on hand. Powdered makrut lime leaves were the real disappointment, performing poorly in every use. It gave soup a swampy tint with unpleasant sediment, and turned the stir-fry an unappetizing color. Tasters noted a “bitter aftertaste” and “mulchy flavor.” Our advice? If you have ready access, fresh leaves are great. But for ease of storage, frozen or dried make the most sense.
The Lowdown on Low-Sodium Soy Sauce
We often use low-sodium soy sauce because it allows us to add savory depth with less risk of oversalting. To find our favorite, we tried 10 brands (sometimes also labeled reduced-sodium), tasting them plain and with tofu to identify the top four. We then used those in fried rice, judging them on their balance of salt, umami and overall flavor. Yamasa Reduced Sodium Shoyu took the top spot with its “clean finish,” “great balance” and “classic soy sauce flavor.” Tasters also appreciated its simple ingredient list. Unlike most others, it didn’t rely on additives to boost flavor. Kikkoman Less Sodium Soy Sauce was a strong second. Tasters praised its “robust,” “meaty” and “barrel-aged” character. It was the only sample without added vinegar and had significantly less sodium than Yamasa. In the middle were 365 Whole Foods Organic (pleasant, but slightly boozy), Trader Joe’s (funky with alcohol notes), and Lee Kum Kee (good umami, but too mild). La Choy, San-J and Mr. Taste finished at the bottom; all were described as bland, off-tasting or unpleasant.
Sweet and Salty Sichuan Peanuts
Sichuan peanuts are seasoned with salt, chilies and tongue-tingling Sichuan peppercorns. They are great to snack on, but also are an excellent garnish on noodle or rice stir-fries. To make, heat the oven to 325°F with a rack in the middle position. In a 10-inch skillet over medium, combine 2 tablespoons peanut oil or coconut oil and ½ teaspoon pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until the oil takes on a reddish hue, about 2 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns (finely ground), then remove from the heat and add 2 tablespoons honey, 1 teaspoon white sugar and ¾ teaspoon kosher salt; stir well. Add 2 cups roasted salted peanuts and stir until evenly coated, then spread on a kitchen parchment–lined baking sheet. Bake, stirring every 5 minutes, until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool completely, then break up any large clumps. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
