Kitchen Insider
Tips and Tricks From Our Kitchen
Solving for Steamed Asparagus
To determine the best way to steam asparagus, we tried four methods: an upright asparagus steamer pot; a standard pot in which a tied bundle of asparagus was stood upright in boiling water; a Dutch oven fitted with a steamer basket (on which the asparagus spears were set horizontally); and a microwave (with the asparagus spears wrapped in a damp paper towel). The asparagus steamer pot was the hardest to use and slowest to cook. The microwave resulted in tough, fibrous asparagus. And the bundled asparagus cooked unevenly. The clear winner was the Dutch oven with a steamer basket, which cooked the asparagus quickly and evenly.
The Best Way to Toast Nuts
To find the best way to toast nuts, we compared oven roasting with skillet toasting, and considered whether adding oil improves the outcome. Though the skillet was faster, we vastly preferred nuts roasted in the oven, which were evenly browned and crisp throughout. The skillet-cooked nuts wound up scorched in spots and underdone at the center. Nuts tossed with oil—2 tablespoons for every ½ cup nuts—developed a pleasantly richer, fattier flavor and crunchier bite that stood out in savory recipes, such as salads and noodle dishes, but was lost in sweet batters, such as brownies, cookies and quick breads. So we recommend roasting cashews, almonds and peanuts—with or without oil, depending on your intended use—in an oven heated to 325°F for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring every five minutes. We also found that even nuts labeled as already roasted benefit greatly from fresh toasting; start checking them for doneness after 10 minutes.
Cake Pans: Straight vs. Sloped
We generally prefer 9-inch straight-sided cake pans, but have noticed that numerous low-cost versions have sloped sides. We wanted to know whether the angle of the sides made a difference, so we baked cakes in both types of pans. In most cases, the slope-sided pans had issues. Because the tapered sides, smaller bottoms and shorter walls reduce the pans’ volume, recipes engineered for straight-sided pans came close to overfilling. And when it came to layers, stacking sloped cakes was awkward, and they were harder to frost. Our verdict: Stick to straight-sided cake pans.
Vacuum-Sealed Containers
Food storage containers fitted with a vacuum seal claim to preserve food better by removing air, but we wondered whether they are worth the premium price. To find out, we packaged whole strawberries, halved avocados and blocks of cream cheese in vacuum-seal containers from Zwilling, Lasting Freshness and Shyne Lyne, as well as in a conventional plastic deli container, then monitored each for two weeks. We weren’t impressed. In most cases, the food in the vacuum containers was no better preserved than that in the deli container. The Zwilling did buy us a few extra days’ freshness with the produce, but the difference was slim. Overall, we didn’t see results that justified the cost.
DIY Fried Shallots
We use fried shallots to add savory crunch to everything from all-American green bean casseroles to Thai rice soup. To make them, place a fine-mesh strainer over a medium heatproof bowl. In a medium saucepan or 12- to 14-inch wok over medium-high, heat 2⁄3 cup neutral oil until it just begins to shimmer (about 275°F). Add 8 ounces shallots (thinly sliced); the oil should bubble gently. Reduce to medium and cook, stirring, until medium golden brown, about 10 minutes. Drain in the strainer. Distribute the shallots on a paper towel-lined plate. Sprinkle with kosher salt. Store the shallots and oil in separate containers. The shallots will keep for up to a week at room temperature. The oil will keep for up to a month in the refrigerator; drizzle over soups and salads, or use to fry eggs.
