Chili crisp is a spicy-crunchy Chinese condiment made by infusing oil with fried chili flakes, plus other seasonings. We tasted 10 popular brands to determine which delivered just the right pops of heat and texture.

Overall, we preferred products with small bits of fried garlic, shallots or nuts and seeds that provide crunch; avoid any that appear pasty. Brands that included additional savory ingredients—such as preserved black beans—delivered deeper richness, so read ingredient labels.

Several brands scored well, including Japanese Momoya. We loved its balanced chili heat, umami depth and extra crunch from sesame seeds. KariKari impressed us with its complexity from a mushroom-based seasoning blend.

We also enjoyed Guiz, which had a pleasant, slow-building heat and Sichuan peppercorn zing, with plenty of crunch (in this case, from peanuts). So did Fly by Jing, which offered smoky heat cut with a hint of sweetness.

Our least favorite was Everiday. Tasters found its heat inconsistent, its texture too oily (resembling a paste more than a crisp) and its flavor offputtingly cumin-heavy. Surprisingly, one of the most iconic brands, Lao Gan Ma, also wasn’t a favorite. Our tasters found its heat lackluster and its texture more chewy than crunchy.